The Growing Sophistication of Marseille

After many years, I've had a serious change of heart about Marseille, France's second city. It's one of those places people either love or hate, with detractors outnumbering admirers, so I've long refrained from offering a judgment.

Built in a natural amphitheater around one of the world’s great ports, it has a fascinating history, some superb architecture and fine museums. On the other hand, it lacks the finesse that is often associated with urban life in France, and for many years, its reputation has been tarnished by associations with the Mafia and the drug trade, famously dramatized in the film “The French Connection.” Now, though, Marseille is finally shedding its rough-and-tumble image and finding its place in the sun as a vibrant and exciting city. Last year, it was a European Capital of Culture, and not only did downtown areas get major overhauls, but several outstanding museums opened, along with a fine hotel and many new restaurants. True, you still won’t mistake Marseille for Saint-Germain-des-Prés – it remains a big, busy port with an ethnic stewpot of a population – but the locals are friendlier than they may seem at first, and the city now warrants two or three days of exploration by more adventurous travelers. And at long last, it has a better-than-average hotel, the newly opened InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu, which occupies a restored 18th-century former hospital building.

Marseille is finally shedding its rough-and-tumble image and finding its place in the sun as a vibrant and exciting city.

Although not everything about this 194-room property is perfect – it doesn’t have an outdoor pool, and the somber color schemes of the contemporary décors can seem less than inspiring – I loved spending time on my private balcony staring out at the harbor and the neo-Byzantine church of Notre-Dame de la Garde on a distant hillside overlooking the city. The service is prompt; the rooms are comfortable; and the two restaurants by talented chef Lionel Levy are excellent. Les Fenêtres is a traditional brasserie serving Mediterranean dishes, and Alcyone offers “contemporary and creative” cuisine against a striking backdrop of the Vieux-Port, where the Greeks founded the city in 600 B.C. The lively Capian bar provides an agreeable venue for a digestif, and when the weather’s good, drinks are served outside on a spectacular stone-paved terrace. A Clarins spa features an indoor pool, a hammam, saunas and six treatment rooms. This hotel also offers a convenient location and on-site parking, which is a huge help to anyone touring Provence by car.

Before now, I’ve struggled to find a satisfactory base in Marseille. I’ve tried the historic Grand Hotel Beauvau overlooking the Vieux-Port because it is pleasantly old-fashioned and offers great views, a convenient location and a long and illustrious past (many writers and artists have stayed here). It is not a luxury hotel, however, and neither is the city’s single Relais & Châteaux property, Le Petit Nice, which is run by Gérald Passédat, Marseille’s only three-star chef. I also find it overpriced, stuffy and inconveniently located. During the summer, I’ve also given my patronage to the Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port, which has a commanding location, a good restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool. But it’s not within easy walking distance of the sights you’ll most likely want to see, so, in the end, the InterContinental really is the best bet, with the important caveat that you book a room (Executive Room or Junior Suite) with a harbor view and private terrace.

In addition to taking an excursion by boat to view the calanques, the dramatic white cliffs and fjord-like coves just west of the city, a visitor to Marseille should be sure to see the impressively renovated Musée d’Histoire de Marseille and the new MuCEM, a spectacular museum of Mediterranean civilizations that opened last summer at the entrance to the Old Port. Marseille has dozens of other great little museums, though, and a special favorite of mine is the time-capsule-like Musée Grobet-Labadié, which occupies the 19th-century mansion of the wealthy merchant Louis Grobet and displays the collection of medieval, Renaissance and 19th-century art that his widow donated to the city. What is really charming about this place, however, is that it serves as a sort of living bookmark to the tastes and lifestyle of the Marseille bourgeoisie during the 19th century, when the city was booming after the opening of the Suez Canal and trade was expanding with France’s burgeoning colonial empire. The magnificent 19th-century Palais Longchamp also houses first-rate exhibitions and is worth visiting for its flamboyant architecture alone. Its collection of paintings includes works by David, Courbet, Corot and Millet. And the surrounding park is listed by the French Ministry of Culture as one of the Remarkable Gardens of France. 

AT A GLANCE

LIKE: Spectacular views over Marseille (reserve a room with a view), private terraces and the excellent restaurant Alcyone.

DISLIKE: No outdoor swimming pool; monochromatic modern room décors.

GOOD TO KNOW: Just a short walk from the hotel, Compagnie de Provence (1 rue Caisserie) is a great place to shop for tradionally made savon (soap) de Marseille and bath products, which make ideal gifts and souvenirs. The fig-leaf- and olive-and-lavender-scented products are a great way to bring Provence back home.

InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu 90 Deluxe King Harbor View, $470; Junior Suite Harbor View Terrace, $980. 1 place Daviel, Marseille. Tel. (33) 4-13-42-42-42.

Illustration by Melissa Colson