Marseille is in the midst of a restaurant boom.
Beaches and bistros. Movie stars and modern art. Wine and wonder. The mystique of southern France lures millions of visitors each year.
Though it's in a decidedly off-the-beaten-track part of Paris I'd never been to before -- the 11th arrondissement -- young chef Bertrand Grebaut's recently opened bistro Septime is very much worth the trip.
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