THE WILLOWS INN, Lummi Island, Washington — {Formal} Inspired by an apprenticeship at Noma in Copenhagen, Blaine Wetzel has created a temple to all things local and seasonal in his native Washington. Chef Wetzel and his team forage daily for wild plants on the remote and unspoiled island, and procure meat and fish from within a tight radius. Kale never tasted so delicious as when Wetzel has crisped it and topped it with rye crumbs and black truffle. A dish of glazed beets with lingonberries and sorrel was extraordinary. And a pink crescent of salmon smoked for eight hours over green alder could almost have been candy.
FARMERS FISHERS BAKERS, Washington, D.C. — {Informal} Part of the Washington Harbour complex on the Georgetown waterfront, this distinctive restaurant is owned by the North Dakota Farmers Union. The menu reflects a dedication to local products, and the interior reflects an artisanal aesthetic: The chairs are handmade, and the impressive wood ceiling was installed by craftsmen from Canada. For lunch, I tried the rich butternut squash soup and continued with the chicken salad club. At dinner, look for hearty fare such as steak frites with farmer’s whiskey sauce.
LA COLOMBE, Constantia Uitsig, South Africa — {Formal} Tucked into a cottage on the Constantia Uitsig wine estate in southern Cape Town, this restaurant deservedly wins accolades from every quarter. Intimate and charming, it offers a multicourse menu of exceptionally inventive cuisine. Chef Scot Kirton combines contemporary French techniques with Asian influences. His ingredients are impeccably fresh and locally sourced where possible. We relished dishes such as Champagne-poached oysters, ostrich tataki and tartare, and quail and langoustines in a delicately spiced sauce. Be prepared to linger.
OLIVIER ARLOT, Montbazon, Loire Valley, France — {Informal} Chef Olivier Arlot’s new restaurant displays a relaxed style, with limestone floors and white-painted beams, and the service is akin to that of a chic auberge. Our outstanding meal included sautéed baby squid in a reduction of Chinon wine, grilled sea bream in curried tomato butter with a clafoutis (custard) of Provençale vegetables, and roast guinea hen with a gratin of spinach and Swiss chard. We also enjoyed a fine selection of Loire Valley chèvres, and concluded with shortbread topped with sautéed mirabelle plums and bergamot ice cream.