Acapulco’s Dramatic Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués

“Then, there is the great Mexican resort of Acapulco…” my 1973 Pan Am World Guide proclaims, “… said to have the best sea, best beach, best hotels and nightclubs in the Americas.” Few would make such claims 40 years on. Today, the name “Acapulco” is more likely to conjure images of drug-related violence than of tempting sands and pools crowded with movie stars. Indeed, many people now imagine Mexico to be one big war zone.

To be sure, Acapulco has its dangerous neighborhoods, but so do Los Angeles and Chicago.

On the basis of a recent trip, I dare to suggest that the perils of travel in parts of Mexico can be exaggerated. And if you take some common-sense precautions, you can explore without stumbling into trouble. Aside from a scattering of Europeans, most tourists in Acapulco today are wealthy Mexicans, so intrepid Americans are guaranteed an effusive welcome.

Long ago dethroned by Cancún, Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas, Acapulco seemed destined for decline. But at least one hotel company is betting on a turnaround. In early 2010, the Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués opened at the tip of Punta Diamante, a peninsula embracing the dramatic Puerto Marqués Bay on the southern side of Las Brisas. The lavish 47-villa resort sets a new standard for Acapulco. 

After passing through the secure entry gate, guests register in a stylish open-air lobby-lounge, with magnificent vistas over the Pacific. A fleet of golf carts then ferries them down the lush and often steep pathways to the villas. Upgraded on arrival from an Oceanfront Pool Villa to Pool Villa By-The-Rocks (#607), we enjoyed sensational 180-degree views of the sea, the cliffs below and a snippet of Acapulco itself. The setting sun blazed red directly opposite our villa, a scene made all the more memorable when observed from our heated private pool, cantilevered over the cliff. Behind the pool stood a Thai-style sala, sheltering a sofa where we spent happy hours reading and watching the pelicans glide past. On the adjacent hardwood terrace, two loungers faced the sea, along with a teak table and chairs, ideal for breakfasting as the sun cast its first rays on the Pacific.

The key to happiness at the Banyan Tree is securing such a view. (All villas have private pools.) Avoid the Valley View and (partial) Ocean View accommodations, and opt instead for an Oceanfront or By-The-Rocks villa. Villas #408-#411 have particularly enviable positions, and #101-#106 occupy sites nearly as good. After these, #204, #205, #208, #301, #303, #305, #604 and #607 offer the best combination of views and privacy.

Inside, our villa exhibited a clean-lined Asian sensibility, with white walls accented by dark-wood molding and latticed railings. Floor-to-ceiling windows ensured that the view was never far away, whether we were relaxing on the daybed, soaking in the freestanding tub or drifting off to sleep in the deliciously comfortable king-size bed. Although the interior space wasn’t especially large, it was well laid out, allowing for ample storage and a generous separate shower stall. Sand-colored limestone floors served as a reminder of the beaches in the distance, and the negative pyramid in the ceiling referenced, with a bit of imagination, an Aztec temple. Otherwise, the two solid onyx sinks over a black granite countertop offered the only clue that we were in Mexico and not Asia.

Mexico also seemed distant at Saffron, the resort’s formal open-air Thai restaurant, where I had to keep reminding myself to say “gracias” instead of “khob kun krub.” But as I started my delicious appetizer of grilled duck salad with mint, baby basil, cilantro and chilies, I didn’t really mind. The steamed sea bass fillet with a chili-lime sauce, served atop crunchy steamed cabbage, was also a great success. An alternative dining venue is provided by La Nao, which offers a more eclectic menu of Continental, Chinese and American dishes. I sampled the seafood fideuà, a paella-like dish with vermicelli instead of rice. Packed with fresh calamari and shrimp, it proved immensely satisfying, especially with a glass of Casa Madero “Casa Grande” Chardonnay from the Parras Valley in central northern Mexico.

Professional duty called me to the spa, staffed by Thai therapists. Treatments take place in seven individual pavilions equipped with two tables and sunken tubs. (Some guest villas include private spa pavilions.) After a cup of hibiscus tea, I opted for a sports massage enhanced by champaka incense, which purportedly “refreshes the mind.” Whatever its psychological effects, I stood up to discover that I had an entirely new back.

Alas, the Banyan Tree will disappoint those who dream of powdery sands. The steep peninsula on which the resort is located makes the sea unsuitable for swimming, and the closest beach is a 10-minute drive away. This couples-focused resort also lacks facilities specifically for children, or accommodations suited to families. Some villas have two twin beds instead of a king, but none accommodates more than two people and none interconnects.

During our stay, we abandoned the pool to spend a day touring Acapulco with a driver-guide arranged by the resort. A native of the city, Manuel knew Acapulco inside and out. He took us up to the hilltop Chapel of Peace, from where Acapulco Bay looks as alluring as ever. He then took us to see some striking Diego Rivera mosaics decorating a house tucked in the back streets of the old quarter. We made the requisite stop at the Hotel Mirador, where, undisturbed by any other tourists, we sipped margaritas on the terrace and watched the famed cliff divers plunge into the Pacific. Nearby, the clifftop Hotel Los Flamingos used to host luminaries such as Cary Grant, John Wayne and Errol Flynn, but it has clearly been some time since the property has seen any stars. Manuel pointed out the owner, Adolfo Santiago, standing in the empty lobby. Noticing our arrival, he strode over and, with extravagant hospitality, invited us to walk through the grounds and enjoy the magnificent views.

Acapulco has seen better times, to be sure, but reports of its demise are perhaps premature. Certainly, the Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués is a relaxing and beautiful retreat, which costs substantially less than resorts of similar caliber in more popular parts of Mexico.

BANYAN TREE CABO MARQUÉS  RATING 93 OCEANFRONT POOL VILLA, $745; POOL VILLA BY-THE-ROCKS, $835. BLVD. CABO MARQUES, LOTE 1, COL. PUNTA DIAMANTE, ACAPULCO. TEL. (52) 744-434-0100.