On a clear, moonlit evening as our water taxi slipped into the Grand Canal, its driver turned to us and said, “E ora, una bella sorpresa per voi!” (“And now, a beautiful surprise for you!”) Since simply being in Venice is always a beautiful surprise, I wasn’t sure what he meant until we’d passed under the Rialto Bridge and slid toward an imposing palazzo, which looked like a huge lantern, with lights burning in the tall windows of its façade. The driver cut the motor as we approached the floating dock: “Il vostro albergo!” (“Your hotel!”) Amazingly enough, the Palazzo Papadopoli really was our hotel, as it now houses the new 24-room Aman Canal Grande.
Located in the central San Polo district and constructed during the second half of the 16th century, it is one of the most spectacular palazzi in Venice. But before the glamour of the occasion could fully sink in, two porters were helping us out of the boat, greeting us by name and escorting us through the formal entrance, the porta d’acqua. Inside, we found a lobby lined with marble busts and illuminated by a stern lamp from a 16th-century warship. Attendants offered warm facecloths and glasses of chilled Prosecco while we received a personal greeting from the delightful general manager, Olivia Richli.
Even though it was quite late, we certainly weren’t going to decline Richli’s offer of a tour before going to our room. In the elevator, she explained that the renovation had taken two years and that the palazzo’s current owner, Count Gilberto Arrivabene Valenti Gonzaga, still lives on the top floor with his wife, Bianca, and their five children. Apparently, when the last member of the Coccina family — the original owners — died in 1718, the palazzo was purchased first by the Tiepolos and later, in 1864, by the Papadopolis, an immensely wealthy family from the Greek island of Corfu, who used it as their launching pad in Venetian society. Arriving on the piano nobile, we were shown into the spectacular ballroom (now the Dining Room), a dazzling space with gilded mirrors, lavish moldings, glittering chandeliers, frescoes by the artist Cesare Rotta, and a balcony overlooking the Grand Canal. Contemporary furnishings in Aman’s signature minimalist style added a low-key chic that improbably but successfully contrasted with the flamboyance of the baroque decoration. Two adjacent smaller dining rooms boasted ceiling frescoes by the 18th-century Venetian master Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. Taking the grand stone staircase, we moved up to the next floor. There, the regal Salon contained a concert grand piano, while the adjacent Library featured magnificent walnut bookcases and walls covered with 300-year-old Cordoba leather.
Two smaller dining rooms boasted frescoes by the 18th-century Venetian master Giovanni Battista Tiepolo.
Our tour concluded with a glimpse of one of the hotel’s five signature suites, the Alcova Tiepolo Suite, which comes with exquisite chinoiserie murals and a third Tiepolo ceiling. (Another highlight of the property is the Sansovino Stanza suite, which contains a fireplace designed by the great 16th-century sculptor and architect Jacopo d’Antonio Sansovino.)
The Aman Canal Grande offers four room categories, including the signature suites. Our Palazzo Stanza room was located in the adjacent Garden Building and was reached via a connecting hallway. We immediately felt at home in our spacious, high-ceilinged accommodations with their soothing contemporary décor of taupe walls, gauzy white shades, oak parquet floors and dark-stained wood furniture. The bed was lined with white leather and was made up with a duvet and fine Italian sheets. A short hallway led to the bath, which was nearly the same size as our bedroom and came with a pair of square vanities on opposite walls, an extra-long soaking tub and a separate shower. After an excellent and promptly served room service dinner, we watched a fascinating film about the renovation and turned in for the night.
After breakfast the following morning, we continued our exploration. The palazzo has not been reconfigured as a hotel and still possesses its original layout. There is no reception desk; the concierge is only recognizable by the crossed keys on his lapel; there are no signs; the guest room doors are fastened with 19th-century locks; and guests never have to sign for anything. Aman’s designer, Jean-Michel Gathy, chose to keep things simple. Lavish Venetian Rubelli silks may have been added to the walls of the bar and the dining rooms, but most of the modern furniture is by B&B Italia. Having marveled again at the extraordinary public areas, we took the elevator to the palazzo’s roof terrace, from which there is a glorious view over the belfries, chimney pots and pantiled roofs of the city. When the wealthy Papadopoli brothers acquired the palazzo, they purchased two adjoining buildings, which were then razed to create space for a wonderful private garden. With the Grand Canal just over the fence, it provides a blissful setting in which to sip a coffee and to scan the newspaper before heading out for the day. Despite the awaiting glories of Venice, the Aman Canal Grande is a place in which you’re sorely tempted to linger, for, despite its aristocratic beauty, it is also profoundly tranquil and unexpectedly homey.
Returning to the hotel after a morning’s sightseeing, we enjoyed a Spritz al Bitter (white wine, Campari and club soda, with a twist of orange peel) in the bar, then wandered over to the nearby Trattoria Antiche Carampane, accompanied by a solicitous porter who was afraid we might get lost. The Aman Canal Grande itself serves Italian, Thai and Japanese cuisine in a variety of venues. After lunch, we spent a blissfully lazy afternoon back at the hotel, indulging in the small spa, and still incredulous that we could wander around a Venetian palazzo as though it were our own.
Venice has numerous fine hotels — the Cipriani, The Gritti Palace, the Bauers Palladio and Ca’Sagredo, to name but four — but none is as sumptuous as the Aman Canal Grande, and none possesses the same congenial and relaxing atmosphere of a private residence. In part, this is because the original family is still much in evidence. Countess Bianca is the Venice representative of the London auction house Christie’s, and personally escorts hotel guests on private art tours. (Thanks to the owners’ connections, guests can gain after-hours access to major sights, including the Doge’s Palace and the gardens of various privately owned palazzi.) Of course, the Aman’s amenities are limited; there are certainly less expensive places to stay (though if cost is an important consideration, you may be in the wrong city entirely); and if you want a swimming pool, only the Cipriani will do. Overall, however, the Aman Canal Grande provides a truly unforgettable experience and is a stellar addition to the group’s already remarkable portfolio.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The sense of being a privileged guest in a private palazzo of scarcely believable grandeur.
DISLIKE: The expensive (€50) breakfast; slow Internet access; the eye-watering room rates.
GOOD TO KNOW: My favorite restaurant in Venice, Antiche Carampane, is just down the street.
Aman Canal Grande, 98. Palazzo bedroom, $1,340; Alcova Tiepolo Suite, $4,690. Calle Tiepolo 1364, Sestiere San Polo, Venice. TEL. (39) 041-270-7333.
With prices in Venice rising vertiginously, I am always keen to find smaller, well-run properties that might appeal to those who cringe at the city’s eye-watering tariffs. This is why I decided to spend a night at the Hotel Metropole, a 67-room grande dame three bridges to the east of the Piazza San Marco on the busy Riva degli Schiavoni. (Although this area offers wonderful “Canaletto” views across St. Mark’s Basin to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore and its famous 16th-century church, it is too crowded in summer to be worth your consideration. In my view, however, the whole of Venice is intolerable from June to September, and should be avoided until the civic authorities summon the courage to do what everybody knows they eventually must: limit the number of daily visitors and giant cruise ships.) The Metropole is a favorite of gallery owners and artists who come to the famous Venice Biennale art show. And it also has an intriguing history: Vivaldi once gave music lessons on the premises; and Thomas Mann stayed there while writing his celebrated novella “Death in Venice.”
On arrival, we discovered atmospheric public spaces crammed with 18th-century antiques and ornately upholstered chairs and sofas. The Beggiato family, which owns the hotel, has put more than 2,000 antiques and curiosities on display, and this private collection, along with sumptuous Fortuny and Bevilacqua fabrics, creates the property’s particular charm.
Vivaldi once gave music lessons on the premises; and Thomas Mann stayed there while writing his novella ‘Death in Venice.
At check-in, the welcome was notably warm and cordial. After passing through a hallway decorated with an elaborate collection of antique fans in vitrines, we reached our lagoon-view Junior Suite, which was elaborately done up with red brocade walls and decorated with framed etchings hung on broad strips of scarlet ribbon. Attractive in a decidedly Old World sort of way, the suite was smaller than I had expected, but the views were lovely, and it was quiet and comfortable. The snug bath was fitted with a single vanity and combination tub/shower, and it also had a window overlooking St. Mark’s Basin.
We enjoyed a drink in the cozy Oriental Bar, which offers 30 variants of the famous Venetian Spritz, before going out to dinner. (The hotel’s restaurant recently lost one of its two Michelin stars, but Venetians generally agree that this is no bad thing, as the property is considerably more tranquil in consequence.) Had we been staying during the summer, however, we might have dined alfresco in the hotel’s intimate gardens planted with citrus trees. Service throughout our stay was excellent — the waitresses who oversaw the hotel’s very good breakfast buffet were notably pleasant and efficient — and overall, this is a well-run, old-fashioned family-owned hotel of considerable charm. It is not a modern luxury hotel, however, so anyone requiring a spa, gym or similar amenities will be happier elsewhere.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The fly-in-amber Old World atmosphere; the elegant décor of antiques and rich fabrics; the lovely garden.
DISLIKE: The old-fashioned bath.
GOOD TO KNOW: The location is ideal for anyone attending the Venice Biennale art fair.
Hotel Metropole, 89 Deluxe Double Lagoon View, $575; Junior Suite Lagoon View, $655. Riva Degli Schiavoni, 4149, Venice. Tel. (39) 041-520-5044.
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