An Exceptional Ecolodge on Lake Nicaragua

When you tell people you plan to tour Nicaragua, be prepared for the inevitable: “Really? Well, be careful.” Many of us associate the country more with Contras and Sandinistas than ecolodges and beaches. These unfortunate connotations persist even though the civil war ended 22 years ago. Travelers willing to ignore the stereotypes will discover an abundance of natural and historical riches, easily accessible from the United States.

On the Caribbean side of the country, lush jungles, estuaries and archipelagos shelter an incredible array of wildlife. However, the best infrastructure and most sophisticated accommodations lie mostly in the southwest, between Lake Nicaragua and the Pacific Ocean. Although the roads cutting through the tropical dry forest here are well-maintained, we recommend arranging for a chauffeur. Many key intersections lack signs, and local motorists can be overly aggressive (one of our drivers complained of Nicaraguan imprudencia shortly before passing six cars and trucks in a row!).

The country borders Honduras to the north and Costa Rica to the south, and its setting on the Pacific Ring of Fire has resulted in a spectacular landscape of volcanoes and lakes, as well as a history of earthquakes. Managua, fronting its own volcano-studded lake, was devastated by a 1972 quake, and the historic center remains more or less unrestored. As a result, Nicaragua’s capital unfortunately holds little to interest the visitor nowadays.

The vibrant colonial city of Granada lies just an hour south of Managua’s airport, on the shores of Lake Nicaragua. The baroque churches, charming galleries and airy courtyard mansions are a joy to explore on foot, though the heat of the afternoon demands frequent breaks in the many lively bars and cafés (find my recommended walking tour in the digital edition of the Hideaway Report).

Granada’s delights are best sampled from a base in Las Isletas, an archipelago of 365 islands scattered into Lake Nicaragua 20,000 years ago when the Mombacho Volcano exploded. Most of Las Isletas remains in the hands of farmers and fishermen, but some islands are being snapped up by the wealthy for vacation homes. Nicaragua’s most prominent beer-brewing family purchased a microdot and turned it into a private picnic island!

A backstroke away, the exquisite Jicaro Island Ecolodge is situated just 15 minutes by motorboat from Granada’s lakeside promenade. In addition to the picnic island (which might have been the lodge’s spa, had negotiations not fallen through), Jicaro’s neighbors include a handful of residential islands, a cemetery island and about a dozen tiny specks big enough only for a tree or two and some waterfowl. The resort’s island is scarcely larger, but talented architect Matthew Falkiner managed to squeeze in nine duplex guest casitas and an array of public areas without making the one-acre space feel crowded or overbuilt.

As we alighted on the island’s pier, several staff members greeted us with carved jicaro nuts (similar to coconuts) full of iced grama tea. Since check-in formalities had already been completed, we headed right to casita #5, passing a dramatic saltwater infinity pool. A winding path lined with Panama trees, spiny cedars, plantains and huge chunks of epiphyte-clad basalt felt almost primeval, but the casita itself exhibited chic and comfortable contemporary design.

Three walls were either screens or shoji-like translucent plastic, allowing natural light to flood the space.

It took all my willpower to go inside for the tour, and not immediately to plop into the locally woven hammock hanging enticingly on our deck. A sliding door revealed a warm expanse of auburn cedar, recovered from trees felled by Hurricane Felix in 2007. Three walls were either screens or shoji-like translucent plastic, allowing natural light to flood the space. A series of interlocking wooden lattices gave the casita an almost Japanese feel, the rigidly orthogonal design a striking contrast to the semi-tamed nature outside. The inviting rainfall shower, with lattices on three walls and the floor, was particularly eye-catching.Upstairs in the airy bedroom, mosquito netting draped the cedar-framed bed. The resort does not compromise its green credentials with air-conditioning, but ample screens and a ceiling fan provide cooling breezes. A third person can be comfortably accommodated on the daybed downstairs.

Each of the nine casitas is identical, making their positions on the island the deciding factor. One afternoon, forgoing a hammock snooze, I circumnavigated the island by kayak to determine which were most desirable. Casitas #9 and #7 have the best views, and #6, #5 and #1 offer the most privacy. Note that numbers lower than five face a small residential island, from which salsa music emanated until about 11 p.m. on a Saturday night. On other evenings, the sound of frogs and the growls of howler monkeys lulled us to sleep.

The open-air lakeview restaurant served unfailingly delicious local and international cuisine. Standouts included tender lamb from nearby Zapatera Island, well-balanced melon gazpacho with mint and basil, and refreshing cantaloupe sorbet. 

The staff proved to be reliable bartenders as well; it was sheer delight to sip mojitos while watching the sunset from the yoga terrace, or to nurse a glass of 18-year-old Flor de Caña rum after dinner.

A small but well-appointed spa provided another excuse to remain on the island, but Jicaro’s well-organized excursions made it worth the effort to leave. At the base of Mombacho Volcano, we kayaked through pristine wetlands, spotting egret, osprey, heron and anhinga (American darter), before paddling to some hot springs for a therapeutic soak. Our guide made the subsequent hike through the tropical dry forest absolutely fascinating, pointing out sleeping bats, monkeys, edible wild fruits and curiosities such as the “tourist tree,” so-called because of its reddish, flaky bark. Those who stay longer can explore the cloud forests of Mombacho Volcano, the enigmatic petroglyphs of Zapatera and Isla de la Muerte, and the charming market town of Masaya and its neighboring craft villages.

Considering the comfort of the accommodations, the anticipatory service, the excellent food and the tranquil sur-roundings, we could have very happily spent four or five nights at Jicaro. Since it’s only 90 minutes from Managua’s air-port, we might do just that sometime soon.

Jicaro Island Ecolodge 93 Casita, $510 (meals and non-alcoholic beverages included). Granada Isletas, Nicaragua. Tel. (505) 2552-6353.

The original luxury ecolodge in Nicaragua, Morgan's Rock has 15 bungalows terraced into a ridge overlooking the Pacific coast and a pristine private beach. As on our first incognito stay, we loved the drama of the suspension bridge leading to the bungalows, relished the fine cuisine (notably the mahi-mahi with passion fruit sauce) and basked in the 4,500 acres of tropical dry forest. On a nature walk, we spotted toucans, squirrel cuckoos, gray-headed kites, howler monkeys, sloths and a Montezuma oropendola.

Had I remained on the property for the duration of the stay, as Mrs. Harper wisely did, I might have been troubled only by a frayed pillowcase and an unappetizingly cracked coffee mug at breakfast. Unfortunately, a disastrous excursion to Ometepe Island revealed additional problems. At one point, it seemed we might actually be stuck on the island for the night! Although informed that there had been a “small problem” with the ferry, the manager did not greet me when we returned to Morgan’s Rock and offered neither apology nor recompense. When I did finally speak with her at checkout, she explained, “You know, that’s why we don’t offer the excursion to Ometepe very often — the ferries are simply not reliable.” And how should I have known this, exactly?

The splendor of the setting, the warmth of the staff and the uniquely designed accommodations still make Morgan’s Rock a worthwhile stop. Mrs. Harper was all too happy to relate that she had a wonderful time reading under a palapa on the beach. However, the defensive and unhelpful attitude of the management gave me cause for some concern.

Morgan's Rock 85 Bungalow for two, from $408 (meals and non-alcoholic beverages included). San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua. Tel. (505) 8670-7676.

Illustration © Melissa Colson