Andrew Harper's Hanoi

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Hanoi is a lively city filled with energy that will easily catch you up in its whirl. Cars and scooters race about amid tall buildings, creating the impression that you are in the midst of a thoroughly modern capital. Then, you'll turn a corner and see a cyclo, or bicycle-powered rickshaw, resting in front of a French Colonial building next to a mule cart. Nowhere is this more palpable than in the Old Quarter, in the northwest quadrant of the city. This fascinating maze of streets overflows with little shops selling all sorts of wares.

As chaotic as it seems, there is an underlying order. In the early days, trade guilds were given control over certain streets, and only those shops dealing in affiliated goods could locate there. Thus, there is a cloth street, a bamboo street and so on. Although it is possible to explore on your own, I highly recommend using a guide so you can better enjoy the scene. In the Old Quarter, you will see many examples of the beautiful folk craft the Vietnamese produce. I follow what I call the “Shanghai Rule,” from a purchase I didn’t make on my first visit to China and have rued ever since: If you’re in a foreign country and see something that really appeals, buy it.

That said, I urge you to visit a lovely store called Craft Link (43 Van Mieu Street). Here, I found almost everything that had caught my eye on the street: stunning lacquer ware, shimmering silk cushion covers, masks and exceptionally well-wrought figures from the water puppet tradition. My prize was a long-segmented dragon. Additionally, Craft Link is a nonprofit organization that provides a market for artisans all over the country and ensures that they are paid fairly.

Another essential part of enjoying this city is indulging in its food, and I can recommend two restaurants from my last visit. Overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Bobby Chinn (77 Xuan Dieu Street, Tay Ho District) is one of the city's most popular restaurants. The food is delicious — don’t miss the crisp spring rolls in a particularly well-balanced chili sauce, and the pork curry with the blend of spiciness and sweetness that characterizes much of Vietnamese cooking. This place is very popular with the local expat community, and it can get noisy up front, so try for a table in the back.

Just a short walk from the grande dame Sofitel Metropole hotel, my recommended hotel in the city, the Club De L'Oriental (22 Ton Dan Street, Hoan Kiem District) is a wonderfully stylish place. Entering through large carved doors, you then pass along a walkway over a small pond into a multi-tiered restaurant with high ceilings. The second floor is dominated by a large open kitchen whose roaring gas burners sound like they could launch the space shuttle! The best way to eat here is to select from several small dishes, including the soft-shell crab, fried to crisp perfection with nary a trace of grease; the tender grilled chicken infused with a tang of lemongrass; the crab-packed Hanoi spring rolls; and the marvelous toasted prawns seasoned with a blend of salt and pepper that keeps both elements in check with a chemist’s precision. We enjoyed the Jim Barry Sauvignon Blanc and the Vasse Felix Chardonnay, both of which complemented this straightforward but beautifully prepared food.

Finally, my visit to the Thang Long Water Puppetry Theatre was one of the highlights of my Hanoi stay, and I urge anyone going to this fascinating city to make it a priority. Perhaps one reason for my initial benign neglect was unfamiliarity with the art form. Dating to the 11th century, it developed in northern Vietnam, where the inhabitants used the many ponds and flooded rice paddies as stages for local entertainments. In its current incarnation, water puppetry brings together elaborate stagecraft, music and the consummate skills of the puppeteers. It's a marvelous show.