Art in Munich

When most people think of Munich, they think more of Oktoberfest excesses than world-class art. But the city is amply endowed with the latter, especially now that the Lenbachhaus has reopened its doors after a major renovation and expansion. Comprising a 19th-century mansion and a brand-new addition designed by Norman Foster, the museum houses a thrilling collection of art particularly strong in works from the vibrant Blaue Reiter and Neue Sachlichkeit movements.

Frustratingly, the museum reopened just days after we completed our recent Munich visit, and we could not tour the new facility. I consoled myself with a visit to the Alte Pinakothek, a museum as notable for its superb collection of Old Masters as for its general lack of crowds. In high season, museums such as the Louvre and the Uffizi can become insufferable, but on our visit to the Alte Pinakothek (at 6 p.m. on a Tuesday), we encountered few other visitors. In fact, we stood before Albrecht Dürer’s intensely penetrating Self-Portrait with Fur-Trimmed Robe — Germany’s Mona Lisa — completely alone, enjoying several minutes of silent contemplation with the masterpiece. Immediately to its right, we had yet more time alone with Dürer’s startlingly expressive Four Apostles.

In grand rooms filled with remarkable works by Italian, Flemish, German and French masters, we enjoyed similarly luxurious space and quiet. It’s increasingly rare to find places like the Alte Pinakothek, where one can enjoy “blockbuster” masterpieces in peace, without being jostled by crowds of people trying to do the same.