On my recent trip to Rome, I decided to pay a visit to the Vatican Museums and the adjacent Sistine Chapel. I had not set foot in either for at least a quarter of a century, during which time the number of tourists has increased exponentially to more than 6 million visitors a year.
In order to optimize the experience, I asked Andrew Harper Travel to reserve a private guided tour through our partner Absolute Italy as early in the day as possible. My guide picked me up at my hotel, and we arrived at the entrance just after 8 a.m. Several hundred people were already assembled, many wearing the fluorescent orange and yellow jackets they had been given by their tour operators to prevent them from getting lost. Fortunately, the privileged access I had purchased enabled us to walk to the head of the queue and pass through the security screening with the minimum of fuss. It was about 8.30 a.m. when we entered the famous classical-sculpture gallery; since the official opening time is 9 a.m., we had the place to ourselves. (If you don’t sign up for a private tour, the Vatican allows visitors to enter the museums at 7:15 a.m. for an additional fee of €65. After a buffet breakfast in the cafeteria, they then proceed on a self-guided exploration. For tickets, contact the Online Ticket Office of the Vatican Museums.)
The Vatican Museums trace their origin to the discovery of the famous classical sculpture Laocoön and His Sons, which was unearthed in 1506 near the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Pope Julius II sent Michelangelo to examine the find, and on his recommendation the pope purchased the sculpture and put it on display. Still regarded as one of the masterpieces of the Vatican collections, Laocoön is exhibited today in the Statues Courtyard. We arrived there at about 9.30 a.m., and although we had now been joined by a trickle of visitors, it was still possible to enjoy an uninterrupted view of the sculpture and feel under no compulsion to move on.
Things were very different when we reached the famous Gallery of Maps, a mere 30 minutes later. Suddenly, we found ourselves hemmed in on every side and propelled forward by the crowd as if on a conveyor belt. By the time we came to the Raphael Rooms, containing the celebrated fresco “The School of Athens,” severe claustrophobia was beginning to set in. Fortunately, we were able to find temporary respite in the adjacent Borgia Rooms, with their dazzling frescoes by Pinturicchio. Apparently no one is much interested in Pinturicchio, and in consequence, the salons were empty.
Eventually, I emerged into the sunlight of St. Peter’s Square, making a mental note that this was an experience never to be repeated.
The Vatican was clearly not designed to receive up to 20,000 visitors a day, so the corridors leading to the Sistine Chapel were jammed, and we shuffled forward a few feet at a time. The chapel itself was packed with hundreds of people, and while it was possible to view the ceiling, the atmosphere was scarcely conducive to contemplation. Every 30 seconds or so, a grumpy voice on a public-address system instructed visitors not to take photographs, not to make a noise and to keep moving toward the exit. Needless to say, no one took any notice. Eventually, I emerged into the sunlight of St. Peter’s Square, making a mental note that this was an experience never to be repeated.
Later that same day, I was walking along the Corso toward the Piazza Venezia when I found myself outside the entrance to the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, the largest Roman palace still in private ownership. Catching a glimpse of a quiet courtyard planted with orange trees, I decided to go inside. As there seemed to be only a handful of other visitors, I bought a ticket for the picture gallery. The public spaces of the palazzo — especially the frescoed Gallery of Mirrors — are dazzling, and the art collection is astonishing, with major works by Raphael and Caravaggio, as well as a portrait of Pope Innocent X (formerly Giovanni Battista Pamphilj) by Velázquez. I wandered from one salon to the next accompanied by an excellent audio guide narrated by Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj himself, who still lives in the palazzo’s private apartments. Nowhere did I encounter more than a dozen other people. Having passed a tranquil couple of hours, I returned to the traffic and bustle of the Corso.
The next day, I had a surprisingly similar experience. I had intended to visit the Borghese Gallery, to see its famous Caravaggios, Titian’s masterpiece “Sacred and Profane Love” and the incomparable collection of sculptures by Bernini. Having enjoyed a relaxing stroll through the leafy Borghese gardens, I discovered that the gallery now, very sensibly, admits only 360 people at a time and that it is necessary to book a ticket in advance. Turned away, I walked for 25 minutes back across the park to the Villa Giulia, which, built from 1551 to 1553 for Pope Julius III, houses the National Etruscan Museum. Although the world’s foremost collection of Etruscan treasures, it is not on Rome’s A-list of attractions, and once again, I found myself virtually alone.
Alas, at places like the Pantheon, the Colosseum and the Capitoline Museums, oppressive crowds are all but unavoidable. The only thing you can do is book tickets online to avoid having to queue at the entrance. However, if you are willing to explore and you have a good guidebook, it is still possible to leave the tourist hordes behind.
Have more time in Rome? Here are Andrew Harper's recommendations on Things to Do in the Eternal City.
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