Bardessono: A Notable Addition to the Napa Valley

Despite its setting in the heart of Yountville, the clean, spare construction of Bardessono reminds me of Southern California. One could easily picture its artfully rusted steel columns, planks of salvaged lumber and vertical basalt fountains set to use in Palm Springs. The 62-room property opened in February 2009 as one of only three LEED Platinum-certified (a rigorous environmental designation) hotels in the country, but while its design may be sleek, its attitude is happily old-fashioned. Children and pets are welcome, and bicycle riding is encouraged.

Bardessono’s central location encourages gentle strolls. Yountville, a bucolic town of 4,000, is famous for its Thomas Keller restaurants (Ad Hoc, Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery, The French Laundry), all of which are within walking distance, but there are also several vineyard paths and pleasant Victorian neighborhoods to explore. There is much to enjoy inside the grounds, as well. Guests can wander amid the stone and water features in the four main guest wings, inspect the kitchen garden or balance a glass of wine in a hammock. A 75-foot rooftop pool has wonderful views of the Stags Leap Palisades and the Mayacamas Mountains.

Accommodations are divided into three categories: King Spa-Suite, Steam Spa-Suite and Tufa Suite. The first two are very similar, with 550 square feet of indoor space, living areas with gas fireplaces and 40-inch televisions, bottom-jetted tubs, separate showers, double vanities and private outdoor areas. Those in the second category, all located on the ground floor, feature expanded baths with shower-steam rooms and outdoor showers. The 780-square-foot Tufa Suites have living spaces separated from the bedrooms by see-through gas fireplaces. All the baths are designed for in-room spa treatments, with stowed massage tables. We were quite happy in our King Spa-Suite, which was exceptionally peaceful despite being located in the Cypress Grove wing next to Yount Street.

Its LEED bona fides notwithstanding, Bardessono never comes across as an experiment in environmental austerity. For sensible reasons such as water usage, there is a notable lack of carpets, bedspreads and curtains in the rooms. The linens and robes are made from organic Coyuchi cotton, and the In Fiore bath products come in refillable dispensers. Motion sensors automatically close the solar shades and turn off lights when guests leave the room.

Yountville probably has more Michelin stars per capita than any other municipality on the planet, so the bar is set high in terms of cuisine. Fortunately, the food at Bardessono is quite good (though for breakfast, I was happy to stroll across the street to Bouchon Bakery for a pistachio citrus brioche or an exceptionally good blueberry muffin). One lazy courtyard lunch consisted of a chilled glass of Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc, a burrata and beet salad, and a lightly seared tuna sandwich on a sesame bun with wasabi aioli and heirloom tomatoes.

Would I opt for a dinner at Bardessono over one of Keller’s establishments, or the creative Michelin-starred fare at Redd on Washington Street? Probably not, but I had a perfectly enjoyable meal one evening: a dense, flavorful artichoke risotto followed by a beef strip loin with porcini mushrooms and a delicious buttermilk panna cotta. Some fellow guests recovered from a night at The French Laundry with split pea soup and a simple roast chicken.

Though I recommend this property and look forward to a return visit, I did experience some perplexing bumps in room service, including some un-ordered coffee that arrived far too early one morning. Perhaps I was unlucky. I have certainly read yards of praise for Bardessono from Hideaway Report subscribers (the property appeared on last year’s list of Reader Survey favorites). There was talk a few years ago of Keller opening an inn across the street from The French Laundry; whether or not that progresses, at the moment Yountville doesn’t need it. Bardessono is the best new hotel to open in Napa since Poetry Inn.

[Bardessono][1] 93 King Spa-Suite, $450; Tufa Suite, $600. 6526 Yount Street, Yountville, CA 94599. Tel. (707) 204-6000.

Illustrations ©Melissa Colson