Belize: The Maya Heartland

Many of the world's greatest archaeological sites suffer from a surfeit of admirers. The crowds can cause physical damage to the ruins—Machu Picchu being an egregious example—but they also undermine the quality of the experience.

The great Mayan city of Chichen Itza is an easy excursion from the beaches of Cancún and is now frequently overrun by tourists. For ancient cities to be re-peopled by the ghosts of the past, they have to be encountered in relative solitude. Fortunately, in the so-called Maya Heartland—an area that encompasses the region of Petén in northeastern Guatemala, the Cayo District of western Belize and parts of the Mexican state of Campeche—there are still many places where it is possible to sit amid the stones lost in quiet contemplation.

The Maya are perhaps the most romantic of the world's ancient peoples. I have long been enthralled by images of soaring temple towers protruding from dense jungle still patrolled by jaguars. And as a backdrop, there is the continuing enigma of the Maya Collapse. Despite decades of study and the successful deciphering of some inscriptions, no one yet knows for certain why their great cities were abandoned and left for nature to reclaim. (Some speculate that overpopulation led to environmental disaster and mass starvation, while others theorize that a prolonged series of droughts caused people to lose faith in their priests and kings who were supposed to guarantee reliable rainfall, a disillusionment that led to social disintegration.)

The crown jewel of Maya sites is Tikal in northeastern Guatemala, once a city of around 100,000 people. Surrounded by a pristine 222-square-mile national park, it contains more than 3,000 structures, some of which rise more than 200 feet above the tree line. Two exquisite eighth-century temple pyramids overlook Tikal's Grand Plaza, and in the early morning, with tendrils of mist still entangled in the jungle canopy, it is a place of mysterious, almost unearthly beauty.

The Tikal National Park opens at 6 a.m., and for two or three hours it is possible to have the place virtually to oneself. By midmorning, however, significant numbers of visitors have begun to arrive, including people who have flown from Cancún to the nearby town of Flores. The nearest Harper-recommended hotel is Francis Ford Coppola's eco-lodge, La Lancha, less than an hour's drive away, and the resort readily arranges cars and guides for a predawn departure. It is also possible to visit Tikal from jungle lodges in Belize such as Blancaneaux and Chaa Creek, but these lie two-and-a-half hours' drive away across an international border.

The Classic Period of the Maya extended from A.D. 200-900, and archaeologists now believe that the era's two rival superpowers were Tikal and the city of Calakmul, which lies 120 miles to the north in the Mexican state of Campeche. Calakmul is relatively inaccessible, and there are no Harper-recommended properties within a convenient distance. However, Calakmul's principal ally in the long conflict with Tikal was Caracol, a great city located in western Belize within two hours' drive of both Blancaneaux and Chaa Creek.

Caracol receives few visitors, owing partly to the poor quality of the road, which necessitates a four-wheel-drive vehicle even in the dry season (January-June). But those willing to suffer a minor degree of discomfort are rewarded with extraordinarily impressive ruins that extend over 15 square miles. Caracol's focal point is the majestic 140-foot Caana Temple, which after 1,250 years is still the highest structure in Belize.

One of the most remarkable things about the Maya Heartland is the profusion of archaeological sites. (Apparently, many more await discovery beneath the jungle by satellite surveillance.) And these secondary cities are often surprisingly impressive. On a recent trip to Belize, we spent several days at Chaa Creek, an enchanting jungle lodge just five miles from the Guatemalan border. Tikal and Caracol are both day trips, but three other significant Mayan centers—El Pilar, Cahal Pech and Xunantunich—are all close by.

We set out one morning to visit Xunantunich, and after 15 minutes came to the banks of the Mopan River, where we boarded a wonderful old hand-cranked chain ferry. A short drive up a steep, winding road brought us to a small visitors' center and a parking lot occupied by just one other vehicle. An average of 40 people a day visit the site, but that morning we had the place virtually to ourselves. Xunantunich ("Stone Lady" in Mayan) dates from the Classic Period and was first excavated in the 1890s. But recent work by archaeologists from the University of Pennsylvania has unearthed several large buildings, as well as a number of striking stucco friezes.

The city comprises six plazas surrounded by 26 temples and palaces. The most remarkable structure, however is a 130-foot stepped pyramid known as El Castillo. A rough path (unsuitable for those with vertigo) leads to the summit, from where there is a stupendous panoramic view that encompasses the whole site as well as forested hills extending far into both Belize and Guatemala. We sat for half an hour with our backs against a stone, buffeted by a warm tropical breeze, reveling in the space and solitude.