Brittany was once poor and isolated, and qualified only for a bit part in French haute cuisine by supplying the rest of France with seafood. That’s all changed, though, since many talented young Breton chefs prefer the excellent produce and healthy lifestyle of their native region to Paris or the Riviera. As a result, Brittany has become a gastronomic destination.
Self-taught chef Hervé Bourdon has developed a remarkable network of local suppliers, and he respects the quality of their produce by cooking it simply and precisely. This excellent seafood restaurant is where we celebrated the end of our cure with a superb meal of mackerel sashimi on cauliflower purée, and sea bass with artichokes and ginger.
11 quai Saint-Ivy, Portivy, Saint-Pierre-Quiberon. Tel. (33) 2-97-30-91-61.
After many years working in celebrated Paris kitchens, including Pavillon Ledoyen, Epicure and Arpège, young chef Stéphane Cosnier returned home and opened this modern French bistro, which is a perfect place for lunch after a visit to Carnac. His menu changes often, but runs to dishes such as roasted langoustines with crushed grilled peanuts, John Dory in mussel sauce, and a buckwheat waffle with stewed peaches and verbena ice cream.
36 avenue de la Poste, Carnac. Tel. (33) 2-97-57-50-35.
Located next to the little white lighthouse at the entrance to the fishing port of Sauzon on Belle-Ile, this simple seafood restaurant serves the excellent local catch of the day, including langoustines, mussels, oysters, lobster and sea bass. An enchanting terrace overlooks the harbor. Open April 1 through September 30.
Quai Guerveur, Sauzon, Belle-Ile-en-Mer. Tel. (33) 2-97-31-60-36.
This article appeared in the October 2014 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Memorable Breton Restaurants."
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