Until recently, the culinary scene in Rio was not highly regarded, the oft-repeated joke being that the only way to eat well was to catch a plane to São Paulo. Fortunately, things have improved.
Owned by Rogério Fasano, a fourth-generation member of the renowned hotelier-restaurateur family, this fashionable establishment serves classic Italian cuisine. However, there are plenty of culinary clues to remind you that you are in Brazil. For example, you might find on the menu “Carioca-Roman” salt cod, right out of the Portuguese repertoire but enlivened with pine nuts and tomato. You’ll also be impressed with the wine list, which has a fine selection of Italian bottles, as well as surprisingly good Brazilian reds. The restaurant, with warm brick walls and well-executed lighting, is handsomely decked out with black-and-white pictures of the city.
Gero Ipanema
Rua Anibal de Mendonça 157, Ipanema. Tel. 21-2239-8158
In a business overpopulated with unrestrained egos, chef Rafa Costa e Silva is an exception. He could well be otherwise, as he is a wizard at taking favorite Brazilian ingredients and flavors and giving them delightful and innovative twists. Costa e Silva scours the local markets and works with trusted providers to create a menu that changes daily, supported by a fine selection of Brazilian wines.
Lasai
Rua Conde de Irajá 191. Tel. 21-3449-1834
Claude Troisgros, a scion of the famous gastronomic dynasty, employs Brazilian ingredients in recipes informed by classical French technique. Expect dishes such as roasted sea bass with green apple, celery, lemon confit and shiitake-bacon consommé, or duck breast with passion fruit, caramelized endive and foie gras.
Olympe
Rua Custódio Serrão 62, Lagoa. Tel. 21-2539-4542
This fashionable outdoor bar on the shore of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas is where affluent cariocas (citizens of Rio) come for caipirinhas and light meals (bruschetta, fondue) in leafy “Amazonian” surroundings. The prices are outrageous, but the views are memorable.
Palaphita Kitch Lagoa
Avenida Epitácio Pessoa, Ipanema. Tel. 21-2227-0837
A Rio institution for more than 25 years, this lively restaurant serves a full menu of Japanese cuisine, as well as exemplary sushi and sashimi. Try the house specialty drink, a “caipisake,” a caipirinha made with sake instead of cachaça. Reservations can be hard to come by.
Sushi Leblon
Rua Dias Ferreira 256, Leblon. Tel. 21-2512-7830
This sleek, wood-paneled establishment serves contemporary cuisine with Brazilian inflections. The restaurant is known for its large, coal-fired grill, so look for the celebrated charred tuna with tagliatelle and horseradish, and the delicious bife de chorizo (corresponding to sirloin) with rustic potatoes and truffled cream.
Zuka
Rua Dias Ferreira 233B, Leblon. Tel. 21-3205-7154
Andrew Harper members have access to full travel-planning services through Andrew Harper Travel.
1 (800) 375-4685
Open M-F 8:30AM-5:30PM CT
