Web Exclusive: Bogotá’s Charming Usaquen Neighborhood

On the northeastern edge of the city, Usaquén used to be a separate town before Bogotá absorbed it in the 1950s. This low-rise quarter still retains vestiges of its independent past, including a leafy square sloping down from the 17th-century Santa Bárbara Church. Lately, the district has emerged as a fashionable section of the city, and it is a delightful place in which to spend an afternoon.

Start with lunch in one of the restaurants on Carrera 6 between Calle 120A and Calle 119. Owned by well-traveled chef Luz Beatriz Vélez, Abasto feels like an upscale deli or bistro, and indeed, the shop in the back sells a tempting array of gourmet products, including unusual local jams. Just down the street, you’ll find one of Bogotá’s two Bistronomy branches (the other is in Zona G), both run by the famous Rausch brothers.* Bistronomy serves a range of European and Latin American comfort food, including stuffed zucchini blossoms and cassoulet. And farm-to-table Mercado, the third restaurant of celebrity chef Leonor Espinosa,* focuses on local Colombian ingredients produced sustainably and organically.

After lunch, walk just south of Usaquén’s square to the Hacienda Santa Bárbara, a mall with a worthwhile selection of independently owned shops. Steros Shopping has colorful leather wallets and purses that make ideal gifts. Entrada F of the mall brings you back to Carrera 6. If you are in the mood for something caffeinated, walk uphill on Calle 118 to the tiny, bohemian Café Usaquén, or indulge in a pastry at La Tarta on Calle 117. Alternatively, stop in the Bogotá Beer Company, a friendly and cozy brewpub on Calle 119. Its beers are crafted in a range of styles and named after Bogotá neighborhoods. My favorites were the floral and bitter Septimazo IPA, the well-balanced Hefeweizen-style Zipaquirá and the stellar Chapinero Porter.

*See my review of Bogotá restaurants.