Chicago Restaurant Update

Chicago has one of the liveliest restaurant scenes in the country. Here are some places we particularly enjoyed on our recent visit.

Alinea

Hailed by many as the best restaurant in America, Michelin three-star Alinea is certainly among the most interesting. Chef Grant Achatz confounds all expectations of what fine dining should be with a 19-course meal that pushes the boundaries of culinary creativity. For example, a bowl of roasted root vegetables, maitake mushrooms and chestnut cream rested in a larger bowl filled with hot water, dried oak leaves, sticks, straw and sliced apple and pumpkin. As the earthy flavors of the vegetables mingled with the aroma of the leaves and other autumnal detritus, the season completely enveloped us. Inevitably, not all 19 courses succeeded equally well. The tariff is bracing: $195 per person, with a $150 per person supplement for wine pairings. But if you want to see where experimental gastronomy is heading in the United States, this place is a must.  1723 N. Halsted Street. Tel. (312) 867-0110.

North Pond

We have long liked North Pond, a handsome Arts and Crafts-style building set beside the water in Lincoln Park. Previously, we have gone for dinner, when there was not enough light to really appreciate the setting. This time, we went for Sunday brunch. The weather gods favored us with blue skies, and the city skyline to the south was truly dramatic. We loved our meal of braised pork belly accompanied by a side of Parmesan grits with Gulf shrimp and Bosc pears, and a leek-ricotta quiche with arugula, prosciutto and applesauce. Both were a welcome change from eggs Benedict!  2610 N. Cannon Drive. Tel. (773) 477-5845.

XOCO

I have long admired chef Rick Bayless for his Mexican restaurants: Frontera Grill and Topolobampo. His latest venture, XOCO, is a small, lively spot for casual dining. Sandwiches (tortas) are either made in a woodburning oven, or cooked on a griddle. I opted for the wonderful “Cubana,” filled with smoked pork loin and bacon, black beans, avocado, jack cheese and chipotle mustard. Feeling indulgent, I concluded with warm, fragrant churros—elongated Mexican doughnuts—and a cup of hot chocolate, made with fresh-ground cocoa beans. 449 N. Clark Street. Tel. (312) 334-3688. No reservations.

The Purple Pig

Tucked just off the bustle of Michigan Avenue, The Purple Pig is a Midwestern take on a tapas bar. A lively place with flavorful food, it makes a terrific lunch stop if you’ve been shopping, or are en route to or from the museums. Among our favorite dishes were the olive oil-poached tuna with Greek lima beans, and a platter of cured meats, many made in-house. 500 N. Michigan Avenue.  Tel. (312) 464-1744. No reservations.