There is more to Mexico and Central America than beautiful beaches and exotic wildlife. In this series, we explore how Spanish and indigenous cultures combine in these regions' colonial cities to create a unique and intoxicating effect. Most of these cities have yet to be spoiled by mass tourism, ensuring that your experience will be authentic and wholly unforgettable.
Because of their altitude, the Mexican highlands tend to be temperate all year, even in the height of summer. You might start by flying into Morelia, a walkable grid of a city occupying a broad hilltop. The arcaded palaces of Morelia’s former nobility ring the heart of the city, a grand rectangle formed by the Plaza de Armas, the cathedral and the Plaza Melchor Ocampo.
Nowadays, these arcades overflow with restaurant and café tables, ideal for people-watching, and several of the palaces have been converted into atmospheric hotels. Visit lavishly decorated colonial-era churches, such as the Santuario de Guadalupe, the interior of which resembles a Fabergé egg. Museums such as the Palacio Clavijero host well-curated art exhibitions, and craft shoppers will be delighted by the Casa de las Artesanías in the Templo de San Francisco, a former monastery which assembles high-quality objects made in the region’s Purépecha villages. Mr. Harper’s favorite restaurant in town is Lu Cocina Michoacana, which creates “contemporary dishes with a strong sense of place.” Those with extra time can make a rewarding day trip to Lake Pátzcuaro, ringed with traditional craft villages and the ruins of Purépecha temples.
A two-hour drive to the north, the city of Guanajuato once ranked among the continent’s wealthiest due to its rich silver mines. The city’s colorful and elaborate architecture reflects its glory days, and a sensationally scenic valley setting enhances its visual drama, best appreciated from the panoramic terrace fronting the El Pípila monument. Many of the streets are too narrow for vehicles, making them ideal for leisurely strolls. The cobbled lanes occasionally open onto broad plazas bounded by grand colonial churches and mansions adorned with wrought-iron balconies.
Mr. Harper “had a grand time simply ambling around Guanajuato and visiting museums such as the Casa Diego Rivera, the birthplace of the famous 20th-century artist; the wonderful Museo Iconográfico del Quijote, dedicated to art inspired by Cervantes’ great novel; and the macabre Museo de las Momias, the final resting place of dozens of Guanajuato citizens mummified in the warm, dry climate.” Also be sure to visit the Gorky Pottery workshop, which produces an array of stylish hand-decorated ceramics, and dine at El Jardín de los Milagros, a leafy setting in which to enjoy cutting-edge interpretations of regional classics.
>>Read about Mr. Harper's favorite shops for artisanal crafts.
From Guanajuato, it’s just 90 minutes to San Miguel de Allende, ranked by Mr. Harper as one of his favorite colonial cities in Mexico, “because of its steep cobblestoned streets, pretty pastel houses and grand 17th-century Spanish architecture, but also because of its exuberant and festive atmosphere.” He goes on to extoll its “…lively cafés, colorful craft shops, eclectic galleries and excellent restaurants.” The El Mirador viewpoint offers breathtaking panoramas over the city, but then, so do the rooftop terraces of Mr. Harper’s recommended hotels.
As in Guanajuato’s main square, El Jardín in San Miguel is shaded by canopies of immense and perfectly manicured Indian laurel trees, like so many green umbrellas. The soaring neo-gothic tower of La Parroquia contrasts with the baroque cathedrals found in many other colonial cities.“My favorite place is the main square because you can contemplate the style of four different centuries in just one place,” says Gustavo Vidargas, marketing & public relations manager with Rosewood San Miguel de Allende. “You can see San Rafael church (just beside the main parish) that was founded in the 16th century. You can also enjoy the classic dark limestone arches and palaces that surround the main garden, and be impressed by the Neo-gothic parish that was finished at the beginning of the 20th century.”
Simply meandering the colorful streets is a joy here, but don’t miss the Fábrica La Aurora, a former textile factory that now contains galleries of contemporary art, antiques and handicrafts. The elegant restaurants of Mr. Harper’s favorite hotels each deserve consideration, as does Moxi in the Hotel Matilda. Here, acclaimed chef Enrique Olvera serves updated and beautifully presented renditions of traditional Mexican recipes.
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