Copenhagen now has two Michelin two-star restaurants — much-lauded noma and Geranium — but there is also a constellation of one-star places. These lesser-known establishments offer a similar experience of “New Nordic Cuisine,” but are less expensive and easier to book. Among my favorites in this more accessible category are the following.
Chef Søren Selin has an intriguing gastronomic imagination and a stunning command of culinary technique. His menus change constantly, but are made almost exclusively with Danish seasonal produce, and run to dishes such as lumpfish roe, veal and cranberries; and beef with bone marrow, nettles and cep mushrooms. The vaulted white dining rooms have a quiet drama, and service is excellent.
Dinner only. Dronningens Tværgade 2. Tel. (45) 33-11-11-45.
This appealing contemporary restaurant is the rare Copenhagen newcomer where you can also order à la carte — perhaps dishes such as oysters with passion fruit vinaigrette, squid cooked in red wine with smoked bacon and garlic, and a delicious dessert of strawberries, marzipan and chocolate. With the tasting menus, you can elect to enjoy a different wine with each course.
Borgergade 16. Tel. (45) 36-16-30-00.
The unassuming appearance of this restaurant belies its high reputation. Two tasting menus are served at dinner. One is for omnivores; the other is for vegetarians. At “Table 0” (for four people), you can sample 10 to 12 experimental dishes, which might find their way onto the main menu one day.
Jægersborggade 41. Tel. (45) 36-96-66-09.
If you have your heart set on dining at noma or Geranium, one way to do so without booking years in advance is to join a private dinner party arranged by gastronomic entrepreneur Kristian Brask Thomsen. A former maître d’hôtel who speaks five languages fluently, Thomsen regularly stages small dinner parties at these Lucullan establishments.
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