Costa Rica: Perennial Favorites

Founded by American conservationists Karen and John Lewis, Lapa Rios nestles in a pristine 1,000-acre reserve, where it harmoniously blends into glorious surroundings on three jungly ridges connected by garden paths. This engaging, rustic eco-lodge overlooks Golfo Dulce in an untouched corner of the Osa Peninsula at the southern tip of Costa Rica (an hour by air from San José, followed by a 45-minute transfer over bumpy roads). Throughout our stay, friendly and professional staff members, drawn largely from nearby villages, always remembered our names and seemed genuinely pleased to help. As at many other eco-lodges, this property has no air-conditioning, and some of the thatched bungalows are a long walk from the fine restaurant (the higher the room number, the longer and steeper the climb to the main building). But for nature lovers, Lapa Rios is a paradise. On my first visit to this 16-room enclave some two decades ago, I remember relaxing on the lounge deck in the late afternoon, cocktail in hand, cooled by a refreshing ocean breeze. And as I watched acrobatic white-faced monkeys and a dazzling array of birds, I felt I must be in the anteroom to Eden.

Another favorite Costa Rican hideaway is Hotel Punta Islita, located on a forested coastal stretch of the secluded Nicoya Peninsula, 45 minutes by air west of San José. There, 54 colonial-style lodgings dot the crest of a hill and provide hypnotic views of the sea. Each features terra-cotta floors, indigenous artwork, customized wood furnishings and natural stone baths. Suites are augmented by outdoor whirlpool spas, while Casitas feature larger private pools and covered terraces. A towering thatched pavilion shelters an open-air dining room skirted by a multilevel freshwater pool with a swim-up bar. A five- to 10-minute walk down a gentle hill brings guests to an attractive cove, with a casual dining/bar area, beachside spa facilities and oceanfront lap pool. When I finally tire of relaxing beside the Pacific — which takes some considerable time — I invariably sign up for one of the resort’s superbly well-organized guided nature walks and horseback rides. I also particularly recommend the sublimely tranquil sunset cruise.