Dining in Dublin

The caliber of Dublin’s restaurants has increased markedly in recent years, and you need never worry about finding a good meal in Ireland’s capital. Except, that is, on Sunday and Monday nights, when most of the city’s top establishments are closed. (Even two star Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud at The Merrion hotel is dark, an inconvenience that I forcefully deplored to the concierge.) I cannot tell you why, as no one I’ve asked has offered a convincing explanation. However, here are three places I recommend that are open.

A short walk from the intersection of the main shopping thoroughfares, Grafton and Nassau streets, PICHET is a lively spot that gives a modern Irish twist to fare rooted in the French bistro tradition. Chef Stephen Gibson has a knack for taking common ingredients and doing uncommon things with them. For example: a hen’s egg, coated, quickly fried just enough to cook the white and part of the yolk, served on fresh asparagus (in season, otherwise, on a disc of black pudding) with frisée and baby leeks in a caper-bacon vinaigrette with mustard aioli. Gibson is particularly good with fish, so look for the sea bream with a tomato confit, white beans, fried calamari and braised fennel. 14/15 Trinity Street. Tel. 677-1060.

I am very fond of THE WINDING STAIR for its loft-like situation overlooking the River Liffey. The first floor is occupied by an associated bookshop, which sells a wide range of both new and secondhand books. Upstairs, the restaurant demonstrates an unwavering commitment to the best Irish produce. I particularly recommend this place for an early evening meal. You can’t go wrong with the smoked fish plate, a choice that will vary seasonally but which will always come with Dillisk (seaweed) bread, crème fraiche and capers. Equally good is the pork filet wrapped in bacon with potato-thyme dumplings and apple sour cream. 40 Ormond Quay. Tel. 872-7320.

You will need careful instructions to get to ONE PICO, which is hidden in an out-of-the-way alley near St. Stephen’s Green. Chef-owner Eamonn O’Reilly has earned his stellar reputation by creating dishes such as a starter of rich langoustine risotto with peas and sorrel in a truffle bisque. His presentation of lamb is just as satisfying, with perfectly roasted loin and rack, as well as a little pithivier (puff pastry pie) of minced braised shoulder with an artichoke, zucchini and basil purée. This was the best meal of our Dublin stay. 5-6 Molesworth Place, Schoolhouse Lane. Tel. 676-0300.