Dining in Heidelberg

Undamaged by the bombs of World War II, the university town of Heidelberg has long drawn tourists to its historic sandstone core, sandwiched between the Neckar River and a romantic half-ruined hilltop castle. Our stay here at the ideally situated Heidelberg Suites proved to be disappointing, but the staff's restaurant recommendations were excellent.

I felt initially skeptical of the Goldener Hecht because of its location: in the heart of the old quarter, with a patio facing the picturesque gate of the original historic bridge over the Neckar. Such a pretty, central location could have made this restaurant a touristy disaster, but inside it was delightfully cozy, quiet and casual. I settled in with a glass of dusky and citrusy Heidelberger dunkles weizen (a dark wheat beer) and ordered some wonderfully hearty German comfort food. We split an unusual and refreshing mixed salad topped with delectably browned maultaschen, large Swabian-style ravioli filled with meat, spinach and onions.

My rich main course of caraway-infused herrengulasch (a slow-cooked Hungarian-inspired stew) came atop a pile of superb homemade spätzle, dumpling-like noodles which in this case resembled miniature gnocchi. The Goldener Hecht is not fancy, but the food feels authentic and tastes delicious.

Along a side street deeper in the old quarter is the Weisser Bock, a more upscale option decorated with leaded glass windows, wood-framed mirrors, historic photos of Heidelberg and candles and roses atop the tables.

After a light and fresh amuse bouche of tender tafelspitz (Austrian-style boiled beef) with fennel salad, I tried a delicate appetizer of succulent quail with rhubarb, strawberry and Brillat-Savarin cheese. My herb-crusted lamb came perfectly medium-rare with savory ratatouille-like vegetables and decadent potatoes gratin, and Mrs. Harper's flavorful veal schnitzel had perfect golden breading and some meaty white asparagus on the side.

A bottle of 2009 Seeger Heidelberger Herrenberg Spätburgunder "S" (a local Pinot Noir) tightened up nicely with the food, exhibiting open red fruit and notes of black pepper and earth.

Though it wasn't running during our stay, the Heidelberg Suites has a restaurant yacht, the Patria, which would likely make for a memorable dinner cruise. –A.H.