100 Century Avenue, Shanghai.
The culinary scene in Shanghai is a continuing game of dazzling one-upmanship, but bigger (and newer) isn’t always better. So we’ve selected our favorites of the recent past, and share them here.
In the French Concession, The Chinoise Story is an award-winning restaurant from chef Susur Lee that successfully mingles Chinese flavors with Mediterranean and French influences. The result is delicate, innovative dishes that epitomize the best of modern Chinese cooking: hairy crab xiaolongbao, or Shanghai’s famous soup dumplings; braised codfish with stir-fried egg, mushrooms and caramelized vintage vinegar; decadent sweet-and-sour short ribs. The posh, high-ceilinged surrounds also nod to an East-meets-West heritage: The historic building’s art deco character is appealingly accented with sleek leather banquettes and elegantly carved traditional Chinese wood chairs.
The Chinoise Story is in the Jin Jiang Hotel, 59 Maoming South Road, +86-21-6445-1717.
Three on the Bund, a 1916 Beaux Arts building redesigned by Michael Graves in 2004, added new life to the Bund with the Shanghai Gallery of Art, an Evian Spa, seven floors of shops and some of the city’s top restaurants. Though the much-feted Whampoa Club has decent hairy crab and creamy, house-made tofu, we found the service spotty and the ambience curiously diner-like. Head instead to Jean Georges Shanghai, where the intimate, clubby atmosphere and attentive staff approach perfection, especially when paired with the famous chef’s impeccable Asian fusion offerings: ribbons of ruby tuna, avocado and ginger; steamed warm shrimp salad with tender greens and champagne vinaigrette; and crispy chicken and potato ravioli with cerignola olive sauce.
Jean Georges Shanghai is on 3 Zhongshan East Road, fourth floor, +86-21-6321-7733.
On the newcomer front, 100 Century Avenue, on the 91st floor of the new Park Hyatt Shanghai, is worth the buzz. With expansive, high-ceilinged rooms that stretch up more than three stories and feature swirling mosaic floors and stellar views, this is the place to go for a big-ticket meal, though drinks here isn’t a bad decision either — 100 Century has one of the most extensive wine lists in China. The space is certainly entertainment enough: Six open show kitchens include wood-fired ovens, charcuterie stations, and steam, wok and sushi bars serving everything from Peking duck and steamed Cantonese-style fish to sashimi, pasta and Wagyu beef. Guests can make their own seafood selections from one of six live fish tanks. But a jazz band and sweeping art installations still can’t compete with the incredible city panoramas offered through the triple-height wall of windows.
100 Century Avenue is at its namesake address in the Park Hyatt Shanghai, +86-21-6888-1234.
We also loved Issimo, on the second floor of JIA Shanghai. Buzzing and energetic, this extremely popular Italian establishment attracts a stylish international crowd. Most patrons opt for the dining room, but the chef’s table and bar is a terrific place to get a front-row taste of the action; on our first visit, executive chef William di Nardo took our order himself. Fresh antipasti — garlicky broccoli, crunchy bruschetta, green olives stuffed with a medley of beef, pork and lemon — were followed by fried ravioli and marvelous wood-fired pizzas made with flour and buffalo mozzarella flown in from Italy. A knockout.
Issimo is located on 931 West Nanjing Road, +86-21-6217-9000.
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