The era of bland communist fare is now history. Today, Dresden draws its culinary inspiration from the region’s seasonal produce, fine wines and venerable Saxon traditions.
Beyond the pristine white façade of the neoclassical Kurländer Palais is my favorite restaurant in Dresden, the seafood-focused Kastenmeiers. The interior of the palace burned during the bombing of the city, but it has only been minimally restored — colorful contemporary paintings hang on walls of exposed stone and brick, where just a few bits of the original plaster coating remain. In this supremely atmospheric space, we enjoyed light and flavorful dishes such as grilled black tiger prawns with arugula and Parmesan, and perfectly cooked sea bass with tomato confit and wild garlic couscous. The excellent wine list has a large by-the-glass selection and numerous options from Saxony.
Tzschirnerplatz 3-5. Tel. (49) 351-4848-4801.
Recommended to us by the concierge of the Taschenbergpalais, this restaurant in the basement of the Coselpalais is known for its 18th-century vaulted cellar. It struck me as rather kitschy, but I did very much enjoy our lunch on the outdoor patio facing the Academy of Fine Arts and the Frauenkirche. My cream of asparagus soup with julienned ham tasted rich and smoky, and the fresh char fillet came with delectably crispy skin, creamed leeks and savory potato rösti with pumpkin seeds. In poor weather, opt instead for the vaulted cellar of the Altmarktkeller (Altmarkt 4, Tel. [49] 351-481-8130), a Saxon and Bohemian beer hall I discovered on a previous Dresden visit.
An der Frauenkirche 12. Tel. (49) 351-262-600.
Hidden away in a lounge of the historic Schauspielhaus (State Theater), this restaurant draws smartly dressed locals for elegant pre-theater dining. The Semper Opera House is just a five-minute walk away through the courtyard of the Zwinger, making william ideal for a pre-opera dinner, as well. I relished my appetizer of a soft-boiled egg with Meissen ham, creamy mustard foam, crunchy dried capers and potato purée, an upscale take on the classic (and much-maligned) Senfei. My main course of crispy-skinned pike-perch with tender asparagus and barley risotto was light and delicious. Interesting wines such as a Hensel & Schneider blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris from the Pfalz paired beautifully.
Theaterstrasse 2. Tel. (49) 351-6529-8220.
Andrew Harper members have access to full travel-planning services through Andrew Harper Travel.
1 (800) 375-4685
Open M-F 8:30AM-5:30PM CT
