London is one of the world’s most dynamic and cosmopolitan cities in the world. It is a place of pageantry and tradition, but also a fashion capital and a center for contemporary art. Visitors have no shortage of fine hotels from which to choose, but after a few days of running around London, the English countryside offers innumerable possibilities for some relaxed sightseeing.
Take the train from London’s Paddington Station 90 minutes to Bath, a lovely city of honey-colored limestone that Mr. Harper deems "perhaps the most beautiful city in England."
Check into the Royal Crescent, a 45-room hotel that occupies two magnificent Georgian townhouses in the center of the historic Royal Crescent overlooking Royal Victoria Park.
Alternatively, pick up a rental car at the train station and drive nine miles north of Bath to 42-room Lucknam Park, a distinguished 18th-century Palladian manor house secluded amid 500 acres of parkland. While less convenient for seeing Bath, the hotel offers compensation: a Michelin-starred restaurant, a cooking school, tennis courts, walking trails and an equestrian center.
Relax for an hour or two in your hotel’s spa (both the Royal Crescent and Lucknam Park have beautiful facilities).
Spend a full day exploring Bath, famous for its Roman baths, its abbey (where Edgar was crowned one of the first kings of England in A.D. 973) and its neoclassical crescents, terraces and squares. Those interested in “taking the waters” can visit the Thermae Bath Spa, a splendid public facility constructed in golden Bath stone.
Depart Bath and drive 40 minutes to Avebury, home to enigmatic stone circles and a henge. Because Avebury is far less famous than Stonehenge, it draws far fewer visitors, and it is possible to walk among the stones.
Continue south about 40 minutes to Stonehenge, which still remains a wonder of the world, despite the crowds.
Twenty minutes farther south is Salisbury, known for its immense cathedral, one of the most impressive Gothic churches in all of Europe. It possesses an original Magna Carta from 1215, one of only four that exist.
Turn east and drive 90 minutes to atmospheric and Harper-recommended Amberley Castle, a romantic fortress dating from the 12th century set amid the rolling chalk hills of the South Downs. Have dinner in the magnificent barrel-vaulted Queen’s Room, adorned with armor, swords, axes and a 1686 mural.
This morning, visit Arundel Castle, the family home of the Dukes of Norfolk and their heirs for nearly a thousand years, making it one of the oldest continually inhabited country homes in England.
Enjoy the afternoon back at Amberley Castle, playing croquet or tennis or trying out its 18-hole putting course. The high tea service is also not to be missed.
Those who can spare another day or two should not miss the opportunity to stay at Gravetye Manor, a superlative property set in an Elizabethan stone mansion surrounded by woodland gardens, about 45 minutes from Amberley Castle. The gardens are among England’s finest, as is the Michelin-star restaurant.
If time is short, drive an hour and 15 minutes from Amberley Castle to Heathrow, return your rental car and depart on your flight home.