I wouldn’t be telling any secrets if I said that the Irish do enjoy a drink from time to time. Pubs are very much a part of the nation’s culture, from the smallest town to the capital city of Dublin. On our most recent trip, I decided to delve a little more deeply into the pub scene. What I was after were real, traditional pubs. And I also wanted to find those places where one might get a good meal. Here are the pubs in Dublin I most liked.
A Dublin mainstay since 1822, this congenial spot takes its name from the small byway named for the second Duke of Grafton. With a welcoming interior and long bar, this is an ideal spot to sit and engage other guests in conversation. Look for such dishes as a fine fish pie and rich Irish stew. The Duke serves as the starting point for the well-known Dublin Literary Pub Crawl every night at 7:30 from April to October, and Thursday to Sunday nights from November to March.
The Duke
8 & 9 Duke Street
The odd name is reputed to come from a legendary Dubliner, a dogcatcher whose head was shaped like a lemon and topped with stubble! Set in a 19th-century building, its atmospheric interior, which is packed with memorabilia, served as a setting for several scenes in the film The Commitments. We enjoyed a fine lunch here — a classic beef and ale pie (with superb crust), fries, a frothy pint of Guinness and a satisfying Irish coffee. Replicate the pub's food in your own kitchen with The Hairy Lemon Cookbook.
The Hairy Lemon
Stephen Street Lower
Dating to 1803, this is a wonderfully atmospheric Victorian-style bar with a wealth of fine wood features. Not least is the superb mahogany. Approach through stained-glass doors and take in the authentic period advertising signs. If you aren’t up for a Guinness, you will find a nice selection of Irish whiskies. We found this a fine spot for a drink before heading off to dinner.
Kehoe’s
9 South Anne’s St.
In business for 300 years. Every time I asked about a place where we could enjoy some good Irish pub food, people referred us to O’Neill’s. Set in a handsome brick building close to Trinity College and across from the famous statue of Molly Malone (of song fame, crying “Cockles and mussels alive, alive, oh!”). I was disappointed to find that the food is served buffet style (you order it from servers), but I have to say it was delicious. We ordered an Irish stew that could not have been better. And the roasted potatoes were the best I’ve had since my Irish grandmother last made them. There are also regular music programs.
O’Neill’s
2 Suffolk Street