The rise of a new generation of young chefs is making Norway an exciting destination for food lovers. Here are five of Andrew Harper's favorite Norwegian restaurants. Not surprisingly, seafood features prominently on their menus.
One of only two Michelin three-star restaurants in Scandinavia, this minimalist place is the most sought-after table in Norway and must be booked months in advance. The menu evolves constantly, but chef Esben Holmboe Bang has a reverence for Norwegian nature that is displayed on his tasting menu in dishes such as langoustine glazed with pickled spruce juice, cod with aquavit jelly, charred scallops and butter-fat sauce, and fried rye-bread cream with mead gelée. The occasional dish can be a challenge, however — anyone for porridge with reindeer heart and butter?
Maaemo
Schweigaards Gate 15b, Oslo. Tel. (47) 22-17-99-69
After working at Quique Dacosta and Martín Berasategui in Spain, young chef Mikael Svensson returned to Scandinavia and won a Michelin star this year for his sleek restaurant near the Mathallen, Oslo’s trendy food market. His tasting menus change regularly, but a superb summertime dinner included scallops with peas and horseradish, brown-crab pudding and chanterelles with miso.
Kontrast
Maridalsveien 15e, Oslo. Tel. (47) 21-60-01-01
For a tamer and more affordable experience of New Nordic cooking, this center-city tavern is ideal for a casual meal. Try small plates like spaghetti with bleak-fish roe and melted butter; reindeer tartare with beets and tarragon; and basmati rice with apple and caramel.
Arakataka
Mariboes Gate 7, Oslo. Tel. (47) 23-32-83-00
Located in a loftlike space in Bergen’s museum district, this candlelit bistro has been a hit ever since chef Christopher Haatuft returned home after stints at Alinea in Chicago and Per Se in New York to cook what he calls "neo-fjordic" cuisine. This runs to dishes like roasted scallops with leeks and beets.
Lysverket
Rasmus Meyers Allé 9, Bergen. Tel. (47) 55-60-31-00
Located inside the Hotel Brosundet and overlooking the harbor, this attractive bistro with an open kitchen is the most popular table in town. The tasting menu evolves regularly but stars freshly landed cod, halibut, monkfish, scallops and shrimp. Desserts include waffles with Norwegian brown-cheese ice cream.
Restaurant MAKI
Apotekergata 5, Alesund. Tel. (47) 70-11-45-00