Venetians often break their days for a snack of cicchetti (hors d’oeuvres) in one of the city’s bacari, or distinctive wine bars. Here are four of my favorites.
The romantic Alla Vedova has been run by the same family for a century. I like to stand at the bar and to sip an ombra de vin while snacking on polpettine (deep-fried meatballs).
Ramo Ca' d'Oro, Cannaregio 3912
Tucked away near the Rialto market, the tiny Alla Ciurma is a real insider’s favorite. Don’t miss the tuna polpette (fish balls) or the musetto sausage with mustard.
Sestiere San Polo 406
Just opposite the gondola workshops on the San Trovaso canal, the popular Cantinone già Schiavi serves superb cicchetti, including cheese and fennel crostini, and smoked swordfish with Parmesan.
Ponte San Trovaso, Dorsoduro 992
Alla Rampa occupies the ground floor of a 17th-century palazzo and has been in business for more than a century. It opens at 4:50 a.m. and is always full of locals chatting over Spritz al Bitter or Prosecco.
Via Garibaldi, Castello 1135