Neil Morganbesser admits he’s scrupulous about travel, looking for a combination of top accommodations, extraordinary meals and locations where he can “get out and experience something unique and memorable”—which is why he chose Andrew Harper when planning his recent Christmas vacation. We spoke with Neil about his trip, as well as why and where he likes to travel.
Tell us about your choice to visit Explora Rapa Nui:
Every Christmas my fiancée and I travel as a couple for a week without our children, and then every New Year’s we travel for a week with our children. This year we decided the couple’s trip would be Chile. My fiancée really liked the idea of Easter Island—so different, so remote—and we could go from there to the wine country in Chile.
I had read a lot about the Explora lodges in Chile. The hotel has to be at a certain level of quality for me to want to go. Explora seemed to have that.
What led you to use the Andrew Harper Travel Office?
I use Andrew Harper when I see a value-add—either an Andrew Harper benefit, or an unusual location where I might have some benefit from having a travel agent in the middle. Explora Rapa Nui had both of those elements. Plus, every time I use Andrew Harper I am happy with the results.
Did you do any particular research or preparation for this trip?
I generally do a lot of research for a trip. I found Viña Vik and it was a highlight. I worked on car rental and itineraries, including which vineyards to visit. I precontacted a few dozen vineyards and set up reservations for tours and winetastings (and in some cases meals) at a bunch of vineyards.
Interestingly, other than how to get to the island, I did no research for Easter Island. I purposely did not figure out what we would do there, and allowed Explora Rapa Nui to program our stay. They are really good at it, after all.
What would you share with other Harper travelers looking to take a similar trip?
Chile is a highly civilized country, with more of a first-world than third-world feel and infrastructure. It is an easy country to travel around independently. The food and wine culture is well-developed. The natural beauty is impressive, and Easter Island is a one-of-a- kind destination.
What would you advise someone to skip?
Skip entering the country through Santiago if you can. (You probably can’t.) The surcharge on Americans is expensive, but the wait to pay is ridiculously long. They should automate the process. Last time we entered Chile it was through Punta Arenas—no fee.
What item or experience was worth every penny?
The car rental that gave us the freedom to drive from vineyard to vineyard. We covered three completely different wine regions: Maipo, Colchagua and Aconcagua.
Was there a particular meal that left a lasting impression?
The food at Explora was light, healthy, fresh and delicious. It had a real “farm-to-table” or “ocean-to-table” feel. We particularly liked the exotic greens in the salad—they had a spicy mustard green that was unusual and tangy.
The two meals at Viña Vik were extraordinary. Right now it is just the owner’s house with three rooms in an exceptional location with exceptional service. (They are building a real hotel nearby.) On Dec. 23, we were the only guests and we had a gourmet meal prepared and served to us like we were the owners. It was delightful and delicious. And Dec. 24 they did a Christmas Eve dinner that was over the top, and when we were finished, then they brought out the huge lobsters to eat!
“The technology to carve [the statues] and transport them is sophisticated but still somewhat mysterious.”
Any highlights to share?
Seeing the moai statues on some of the Explora tours was extraordinary. It is also a lovely hotel with lots of local flavor. The food is also fantastic.
What in particular about the moai statues resonated with you?
They are simple and huge and have a sense of grandeur and a lost civilization. The technology to carve them and transport them is sophisticated but still somewhat mysterious. They seem very human and at the same time very alien—phenomena that are simultaneously easy to relate to and incomprehensible.
What was a highlight from the Chilean wine country?
Visiting Errazuriz in the Aconcagua—a great tour, great location and lots of national history.
Is there a story or event from your trip that you shared with your friends and family upon your return?
The story of the Bird-Man cult on Easter Island. After they had basically torn the island apart with war (and knocked down all the statues), the people of Easter Island decided on a different approach to government. They had each tribe send one contestant to a holy site, and each year there was a contest to see which one could descend from the cliff, swim across to an island, and await the annual arrival of a particular migratory bird. The first contestant to collect an egg from the sooty tern “won,” which meant his tribal leader was in charge for the next year (although he had to live in seclusion and could not cut his hair or fingernails). The first Christians to see this experience recorded it for us in the 1860s and then promptly suppressed it forever.
What do you look for when choosing a destination?
In all cases, a sense of culture that is different from what we normally have in our daily life, combined with a lot of activities to keep us challenged and engaged. We don’t have a lot of downtime at the pool or in the hotel—we look for places where we can get out and experience something unique and memorable. With my fiancée, I want some luxury—the hotel, the massages the restaurants, the tours. With the kids, it’s a little more about adrenaline and getting out and about—having some street food, paragliding off a cliff, snorkeling, etc.
And your favorite destinations for each?
For couples: Italy, France, Indonesia (Bali, sure, but Amanjiwo was the highlight.) For the kids: New Zealand, Thailand, Venice, Burma, Alaskan cruise, and the Galapagos Islands.
In all of your travels, where was your best meal? Maison Lameloise, in Burgundy; Le Calandre (near Padua) and Il Rigoletto (in Reggiolo) are close runners-up. The Inn at Little Washington (just went back for the fourth time last week) is still our No. 1 in the U.S.
Of any trip you’ve taken, which left you feeling the most rewarded?
We did a two-week trip to Ecuador and Peru. Covered Guayaquil, the Galapagos, Quito, Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, Cuzco and Lake Titicaca. That was the best. Galapagos was an amazing experience—we had three of the six cabins on a small luxury catamaran, and we had the most amazing snorkeling, up to three times per day. Plus we got to see Machu Picchu, and Lake Titicaca. It was fantastic.
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