Florence Trattorias and Restaurants

Cammillo Trattoria

I read my list of restaurants to a Florentine friend, who paused and said, “Buono. But you have missed Cammillo Trattoria.” Located across the Arno from the Portrait Firenze, Cammillo embodies all that I want in a trattoria, especially a warm welcome, a lively crowd and uncomplicated food. We began with fettuccine hidden beneath fragrant shavings of white truffles. The pasta was followed by perfectly fried zucchini blossoms. These had such a delicate flavor that any stuffing would have been superfluous. For the main course, I opted for bistecca alla fiorentina, a thick T-bone. (The famous Tuscan Chianina, which resemble oxen, are among the oldest and largest breeds of cattle in the world.) Simply seasoned with salt, pepper and olive oil, the steak was grilled rare, sliced and served with sautéed porcini mushrooms. To conclude, we chose the simple but satisfying combination of biscotti dipped in a glass of Vin Santo. Had I walked out the door and been dispatched by a speeding Ferrari, I would have died a happy man.

Borgo San Jacopo 57R. Tel. (39) 055-212-427.

Buca dell’Orafo

I am not in the habit of recommending hole-in-the-wall places to Harper subscribers, but this restaurant is exactly that. Buca literally means “hole,” but the entire phrase can be translated as “goldsmith’s cave.” Just a few paces from the Ponte Vecchio as you head toward the Uffizi, you will see the uninspiring entrance to this subterranean restaurant. Owned by the Monni family — who shop for regional ingredients at the nearby San Lorenzo market — this intimate and charming place serves comfort food of a high order. I enjoyed a generous plate of traditional Tuscan salumi, followed by fluffy gnocchi, and veal liver with butter and sage. The bistecca alla fiorentina is justly renowned.

Via dei Girolami 28r. Tel. (39) 055-213-619.

Trattoria dei 13 Gobbi

A pleasant stroll from the Portrait Firenze, this trattoria received a strong recommendation from the hotel’s staff. The interior is charming and atmospheric; the servers congenial. Given the season, we opted for a special starter of gently fried eggs topped with white truffles. Then, also keeping with the time of year, we feasted on a plate of tagliatelle and plump sautéed porcini. If you book late, as we did, you run the risk of ending up in a side room that is less appealing.

Via del Porcellana 9R. Tel. (39) 055-284-015.

This article appeared in the December 2014 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Standout Trattoria.”

Illustrations © Melissa Colson