Berlin now has enough serious independent brewpubs to satisfy the most demanding connoisseur.
Berlin’s most famous beer, the insubstantial Berliner Kindl Weisse, regularly disappoints travelers who come to Germany expecting unforgettable brews. It has a sour note, commonly mitigated by adding red or green sugar syrup. I remember when I first encountered this abomination of a beverage, it struck me as the sort of thing a teenager might drink at his first unsupervised party.
Fortunately, the craft beer movement has reinvigorated the Berlin beer scene, and the city now has enough serious independent brewpubs to satisfy the most demanding connoisseur. During our stay, I found three in particular to recommend, ranging from a Bohemian-style beer hall to a cozy spot populated entirely by locals.
Within easy walking distance of Museum Island, this atmospheric brewpub occupies two wide brick arches of a commuter train viaduct. “Berlin’s first craft brewery” had nine beers on its menu, in a range of styles. I tried the mahogany-hued Lemke Wiener Lager, a creamy-textured brew with some malty richness and a dry finish; the Hopfenweisse, a summery and refreshing wheat beer with a hint of bitterness and a pleasing note of hay; and the rich Imperial Stout, with deep coffee and chocolate flavors balanced by prickly bubbles. Some traditional Berliner Knacker sausages with bacon-roasted potatoes and sauerkraut made a perfect accompaniment, though I was also tempted by the Biergulasch with potato dumplings and the Alsatian-style Flammkuchen (flatbread with lardons, caramelized onions and crème fraîche). A beer garden in back has additional seating.
Dircksenstrasse 143. Tel. (49) 30-2472-8727.
In contrast with Brauhaus Lemke, this cozy bistro-like brewpub draws a mostly local clientele to its storefront location on a quiet, leafy boulevard in Prenzlauer Berg. The candlelit tables outside are the most romantic; inside the atmosphere feels energetic, with 30- and 40-somethings sharing “Bavarian tapas” (small-plate versions of southern German classics). Because we walked over right after dinner at nearby La Soupe Populaire, we had no room for tapas. But the house beers we sampled, produced by a small brewery in the Spree Forest called Wanke Bräu, were excellent. I loved the citrusy aroma of the Trübtäter Weizen, and though the Trübtäter Dunkel had heavy flavors of smoke and coffee, it had a pleasantly light texture. To make an evening of it, request the pairing menu, which includes five beers and matching tapas. If you prefer a table to a seat at the bar, make reservations.
Metzer Strasse 30. Tel. (49) 30-5481-5039.
A five-minute walk from Leibhaftig, Pfefferbräu feels less like a bistro and more like a brewery, with exposed brick walls, high ceilings and polished copper fermentation tanks. We tried two of the three beers on the menu, leaving the Pilsner for another visit. The Dunkel tasted dry and rather wheaty, with a mocha undertone and a bitter finish. Even better was the Maibock, which boasted a hefty 10 percent alcohol content. It tasted rich, smooth and sweet, but savory notes underneath kept it balanced and interesting. This brewpub drew the youngest crowd, but we certainly didn’t feel uncomfortable. I wish it had been warmer that May evening, so that we could have taken advantage of the beer garden, set on a tranquil terrace one story above the street.
Schönhauser Allee 176. Tel. (49) 30-47-3773-6240.
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