Germany Gourmet Highlight

The Moselle Valley has an abundance of fine restaurants. A standout of our trip was Rüssel’s Landhaus St. Urban in Naurath Forest, which serves contemporary German cuisine in a converted mill. Brook trout with cucumbers, sour cream, roe and “meadow herbs” tasted memorably buttery and smoky; the local Serrig chicken with spring vegetables was light and fresh; and a combination of veal, venison, white asparagus, bacon “purée,” egg yolk and lovage sauce delighted with its savory flavors. I was also impressed by the cheese cart, which contained a fine selection of raw-milk varieties.