As Andrew Harper wrote in last October’s Hideaway Report, “those who never make a German trip miss some of the continent’s great travel experiences.” Cities such as Munich, Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber and Heidelberg retain their old-world charms, untouched by the bombs of World War II or thoughtfully restored. Berlin hums with renewed energy, erecting some of Europe’s most exciting contemporary architecture. And the countryside is frequently nothing short of idyllic, with wildflower-speckled meadows leading up to charming villages punctuated by centuries-old church steeples.
Just as important, traveling in Germany requires no sacrifices of the palate. Imaginative “New German” cuisine takes advantage of local, seasonal produce to create light, modern takes on hearty classic dishes, accompanied by wines that rank among the best in the world. Food-friendly German Rieslings exhibit lush fruit, zesty acids and focused minerality, and seldom-exported reds deliver well-balanced flavors of surprising ripeness.
Because Germany doesn’t have a well-known routing comparable to Italy’s classic Venice-Florence-Rome itinerary, we in the Andrew Harper Travel Office wanted to share one of our favorite ways of linking some of the country’s most compelling destinations. Aside from a handful of the most famous sights, such as Neuschwanstein Castle, the places described here tend to be refreshingly free of the crowds plaguing many other blockbuster attractions in Europe. Note that this grand tour of Germany need not be done in its entirety to be rewarding. Those with less time could easily do just a portion of the itinerary below and still have a stupendous vacation.
Arrive in Germany’s capital, Berlin. The city still bears the scars of World War II—many pre-war buildings display bullet holes—and the gash caused by the Berlin Wall will perhaps never entirely heal. But this palpable history gives the city an almost electric energy, particularly when juxtaposed against its innovative post-reunification architecture. The vibrant restaurant scene currently has a constellation of Michelin stars, with five Michelin two-star restaurants and nine Michelin one-star establishments. After dinner, chic jazz clubs, cabarets and some of the most highly regarded classical music institutions in the world compete for attention.
Berlin contains some of Europe’s greatest museums, including the Pergamon Museum, housing entire ancient buildings such as Babylon’s cobalt blue Ishtar Gate; the Alte Nationalgalerie, home to several rooms of Caspar David Friedrich’s most breathtaking paintings; and the Neue Nationalgalerie, with masterpieces by 20th-century artists such as Beckmann, Dix, Ernst and Klee. Take a relaxing cruise through the canals past some of the city’s most important architecture. Visit the Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate and revitalized Potsdamer Platz, which are all within a 15-minute walk of one another. In fine weather, the Charlottenburg and Sanssouci palaces are lovely, not only for their ornate interiors but also for their formal gardens.
Fly or take the comfortable ICE train from Berlin to Frankfurt, Germany’s highly underrated financial center. Stay in an expanded pre-war mansion across the river from downtown, or rent a car and drive to one of the nearby lavish country estates recommended by Mr. Harper.
Those staying on Frankfurt’s outskirts can take a day to explore Königstein and Kronberg, both of which have pedestrianized historic centers with inviting sidewalk cafés, hilltop castles and upscale galleries and shops. The ruins of Königstein Fortress afford grand panoramas of the rolling Taunus forest, well-kept villages and the distant Frankfurt skyline. In town, it’s a pleasure to stroll the linden-lined river promenade across from the skyscrapers of the city, which also has several notable museums and countless cozy pubs and wine bars. On day seven, include an easy excursion to the Rheingau, one of Germany’s most important and picturesque wine regions.
Rent a car if you haven’t done so already, and drive south from Frankfurt to Heidelberg, the historic university town described with such verve by Mark Twain. This picturesque city rises from the Neckar River to a sprawling, half-ruined castle. Tour the castle, wander the atmospheric old quarter—undamaged in the war—and lunch at the Goldener Hecht, a casual bar and restaurant facing the gate of the historic bridge over the Neckar. Continue south to the mansion-dotted spa town of Baden-Baden, set in the foothills of the Black Forest.
Enjoy some spa time, hike in the surrounding countryside and/or make a day trip across the Rhine into France to visit the half-timbered Alsatian city of Strasbourg, less than an hour’s drive away. Farther south, the Black Forest center of Freiburg has a well-preserved pedestrianized core and a remarkable gothic cathedral with a soaring, lacy spire. In between Baden-Baden and Freiburg are some of Germany’s most interesting, yet least-known wineries.
Swing northeast and drive to the Hohenlohe, which Mr. Harper calls “an idyllic region of groomed pastures, green mountains, steep vineyards and picturesque villages.” Here he highly recommends the Wald & Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe, with its large spa and 18th-century hunting lodge.
Spend time relaxing in the resort’s spa, and make day trips into the surrounding countryside, which has yet to be discovered by most tourists. Mr. Harper notes that “the town of Schwäbisch Hall and its two excellent art museums, the Kunsthalle Würth and the Johanniterkirche, also warrant a daylong excursion.”
Swing back to Frankfurt and return home from there, or continue exploring Germany with a visit to Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber, the most famous town along the Romantic Road. Best seen as a day trip from the Weinromantikhotel Richtershof or en route from there to Munich, Rothenburg is no stranger to tourism, but its historic old town remains beguiling. Surrounded by the original city walls, the center’s colorful medieval and Renaissance buildings house a wealth of quaint shops, restaurants and taverns. Turn south from Rothenburg to the Bavarian capital of Munich.
Munich’s charming atmosphere belies the fact that it’s Germany’s third-largest city. The pedestrian-friendly historic core sustained damage during World War II, but thoughtful reconstruction and careful preservation efforts have ensured that it retains a pleasant old-world sensibility. The uncrowded Alte Pinakothek boasts one of the world’s finest collections of Old Master paintings, palaces such as the Residenz and Nymphenburg attest to the extraordinary wealth of the Bavarian royalty, and green spaces such as the formal Hofgarten and the sprawling Englischer Garten make refreshing counterpoints to the urban center. Dining options range from Michelin-star palace-style establishments to stylish “new Bavarian” restaurants to casual Wirtshäuser (taverns) serving scrumptious classics in venerable rooms invariably punctuated with antlers.
Drive from Munich into the southern Bavarian heartland. Stop at the Wieskirche, a rococo masterpiece of a church set in a meadow; wildly ornate Schloss Linderhof, Ludwig II’s smallest and most livable palace; and Oberammergau, known for its many façades painted with elaborate trompe l’oeil murals. Lunch on the terrace of Ammergauer Maxbräu before continuing on to Schloss Elmau, a spa resort set in a scenic tract of pine-forested countryside at the foot of the snow-streaked Wetterstein Mountains. The views are sensational, and the expansive spa has a traditional hammam (complete with mosaics, fountains and backgammon boards) reported to be the largest in Europe west of Istanbul.
Take your time exploring the glorious scenery of southern Bavaria. Ascend to the top of the Zugzpitze, Germany’s highest mountain, which presents sweeping alpine panoramas in clear weather. (Mornings tend to offer better visibility than afternoons.) Hike or walk in the rolling forests surrounding Schloss Elmau, and don’t miss the opportunity to have a treatment in its world-class spa. Schloss Neuschwanstein, the iconic castle which inspired Disney’s, can be visited as a day trip, but note that waits in summer can be extremely long. Have your travel consultant arrange for a timed entry, or simply enjoy views of the fairy-tale exterior. In the winter, Schloss Elmau has access to a range of excellent ski slopes and cross-country trails.
Drive to Munich’s airport, return the rental car and take an afternoon flight home, or spend another night or two in the city to relax and shop for additional gifts to bring home before departing.
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