Given Hawaii’s vast fields of sugar cane, it is not surprising that the islands produce the quintessential cane-based spirit: rum.
Perhaps the most intriguing comes from an old Quonset hut on Maui, just across the road from the Hali’imaile General Store restaurant. In this decidedly low-key space, Sammy Hagar, a rock musician best known as front man for the band Van Halen, is producing a fine silver rum, Sammy’s Beach Bar Rum. It employs a first pressing of cane juice, which is then distilled for five days and aged for two years. Smooth and clean, it makes a fine base for a Mai Tai. Hagar’s other rum, Red Head, derives its hue and flavor from an infusion of macadamia nuts.
Old Lahaina Rum is named for the port town on Maui’s west coast, but it originated in the cane fields of the island’s northeast. Three rums are currently in production: The silver is pure and fresh and an ideal foundation for mixed drinks. The gold has a more vibrant presence. And the dark is robust, with a pleasing taste of molasses accented with vanilla. It would be good as a “floater” in a classic rum punch.
Another favorite, Kaua’i Spice rum, is one of five produced by the Koloa Rum Co. It defied all my previous thoughts, mostly negative, about spiced rums. Kaua’i Spice has understated flavors that I found alluring. I would drink it neat before a meal. I also liked Koloa’s dark rum, which could stand on its own as an after-dinner drink.