Medieval Pursuits Itinerary: Spain

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In this series, we’ve compiled itineraries showcasing some of the most interesting, authentic and well-preserved medieval sites across the European continent. In this first installment, we take a look at the stalwarts of Western Europe: England, France and Spain. Follow us through time as we tour architecture, landscapes and villages fit for a history buff—but never far from accommodations fit for a king.

Spain

Baths of Lady Maria de Padilla in Reales Alcazares in Seville
Baths of Lady Maria de Padilla in Reales Alcazares in Seville - © Karol Kozlowski/iStock/Thinkstock

Spain is unique in European medieval history in that it was in varying degrees an Islamic territory known as Al-Andalus for more than 700 years, after Umayyad Muslims crossed into Gibraltar from North Africa in 711 and quickly overtook the reigning Visigothic kingdom. Despite the conditions of the Reconquista—a state of nearly constant war as Christian rulers fought to retake their lands—for a time Al-Andalus blossomed as a locus of great cultural and scientific advancement. The heartland of the former caliphate, modern-day Andalusia in southern Spain, is a rewarding setting for exploring this fascinating historical period.

Begin in Córdoba, the one-time capital of Al-Andalus that surpassed Constantinople as Europe’s largest city and leading cultural center during the 10th century, owing to its great library as well as remarkable religious tolerance. In the center of the city stands the Great Mosque of Córdoba, which was converted into a Christian cathedral in 1236. Intended to rival the great buildings across the Islamic empire, the mosque-cathedral retains much of its original architecture and adornment alongside newer additions, such as the 16th-century cathedral nave.

The area surrounding the mosque, the historic center of the city, has collectively been designated a World Heritage Site and contains numerous medieval structures of note, including the impressively restored Calahorra Tower and the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos. Once a palace for the caliphs, the Alcázar was rebuilt by Christians in 1328 and later housed Spanish monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella—who granted the explorer Christopher Columbus an audience within to hear his lofty plans for an expedition—as well as the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition.

Before moving on from Córdoba, be sure to visit the historic Jewish quarter, where the famed Talmudic scholar Maimonides was born in 1135. The neighborhood’s narrow passageways and cobblestone streets remain intact, as does the Synagogue of Córdoba, which was originally built in 1315. On the outskirts of the city lie the partially excavated ruins of the Medina Azahar, a stunning palace-city built toward the end of the caliphate that once teemed with exotic treasures and magnificent gardens.

The gardens of the Alhambra, Granada, Spain.
The gardens of the Alhambra, Granada, Spain. - © jc_cantero/iStock/Thinkstock

Continue southeast to Granada, last bastion of Muslim rule in Spain and site of the renowned Alhambra. The hilltop fortress was first built in 889 and later expanded into the exquisite palace complex of Spain’s last emirs and sultans, before the city fell and concluded the Reconquista in 1492. Designed with the theme of “paradise on earth,” lavish architectural detailings, gardens and palaces synthesize the styles developed during the eight centuries Muslim rule and constitute the country’s most significant display of Andalusian Islamic architecture. Despite damage, alterations and new constructions after the Christian conquest, there remains ample opportunity to marvel at passageways carved from bushes and shrubbery, exquisite pools and landscaping, intricately carved fountains, and sweeping, awe-inspiring views. Across a ravine from the complex is the Generalife, a masterfully preserved garden villa once connected to the Alhambra by a covered walkway, and considered the most accurate presentation of a medieval Islamic garden in Spain. Opt to stay a few nights in the surrounding countryside at Barceló La Bobadilla; constructed in the style of a Moorish village, the hotel offers an authentic setting for indulging in Andalusian luxury.

Your next stop, Málaga, is located along the Mediterranean coast an hour southwest of Granada. Archaeological records place the founding of the city around 770 B.C., making it one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. Málaga’s seaside setting made it one of Andalusia’s most important and prosperous trading ports, and today the city’s medieval heritage is best seen in two sites: the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro Castle.

During the 11th century, the Alcazaba, the Arabic word for citadel, was built on a central hill that overlooks the Mediterranean. One of the best-preserved in Spain, the inner and outer walls, gardens, fountains and towers still remain intact, along with a handful of dwellings. Connected to the Alcazaba is the older Castle of Gibralfaro, built in 929, which endured a lengthy siege before surrendering to Christian forces in 1487.

Alhambra in Granada, Spain
Alhambra

From Málaga, drive two hours northwest to your final stop in Spain, Seville. Between the decline of Cordoba and the rise of Granada, Seville was the center of power in Andalusia, but it wasn’t until the discovery of the New World that the city truly began to prosper. Now the capital of modern-day Andalusia and the fourth-largest city in Spain, Seville holds a wealth of exciting historical sights, museums and festivals; yet two buildings from the late Middle Ages persist as some of the city’s most appealing attractions.

The first of these is the Alcázar of Seville, a beautiful palace begun in the 14th century and completed over the next 500 years. Initially the site of a Muslim palace, the bulk of the current structure was built after the Christian conquest of 1248 and is a striking example of the Mudéjar style, a unique combination of European and Muslim architectural elements stemming from centuries of shared culture. Today, it is Europe’s oldest royal residence still in use, and the exotic appearance of the numerous courtyards and extensive gardens has made it a desirable location for films and television; most recently, fans of the HBO series "Game of Thrones" may recognize the palace as the setting for one of the show’s fictional cities. Across the street lies the grand Hotel Alfonso XIII, which offers atmospheric accommodation representative of Seville’s deep aesthetic history.

Nearby is the Cathedral of Seville, which began construction in 1402 and currently holds the titles of largest Gothic building and largest cathedral in the world. Built on the site of a former mosque, the only structure that was retained is La Giralda. Once a minaret and now the cathedral’s bell tower, La Giralda displays a remarkable fusion of Muslim and Renaissance architecture. Those who make the climb to the top of the tower can enjoy spectacular panoramas of the city, as well as a fitting space to reflect upon the end of your journey and the unique circumstances and varied cultures that comprised medieval Andalusia.

Continue the tour of medieval Europe in our next issue, when we explore the romantic cities and fairytale landscapes of Austria, Germany and the Czech Republic.

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This article is an excerpt from the October, November, December edition of the Traveler magazine. Click here to access the full issue.

By Hideaway Report Staff
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