In Search of Old Tom

Standing on a 100-foot high dune on the Hebridean isle of South Uist, I have to remind myself that I am actually on a golf course. That is largely because the layout I am playing is also an archaeological dig. Built in 1891 by Old Tom Morris, the course fell into disrepair after World War I. By the late 1930s, Askernish had disappeared, covered by gnarly marram grass and buried by windblown sand. Morris’ masterpiece was gone. Stories about the ghost course abounded, and over the years, they piqued the interest of off-island aficionados of the game. Scottish links consultant Gordon Irvine became so enthralled by the idea of restoring the Old Tom Morris track that in 2007, he and noted English golf course architect Martin Ebert hiked endlessly through the dunes, trying to reimagine and then re-create the course. By August of the following year, Askernish had not only been unearthed; it had been brought back to life. On my recent tour, I took the short flight to South Uist from Inverness and stayed one night at the modest but hospitable Borrodale Hotel. Askernish has been described as the most natural golf course in the world. Cow pies and sheep droppings dot the grounds; there is no irrigation; and neither artificial fertilizers nor pesticides are used. Small daisies grow in such numbers on the fairway of the par-5 sixth that I could not find the Pro V1 I hit for my drive, even though I nailed it right down the middle. Two holes later, the ball from my tee shot disappeared down a rabbit hole. At first, I was a bit miffed. But then I laughed, thinking that the same thing probably happened to Old Tom, too.