When I’m on the Big Island, I make a point to eat at Peter Merriman’s flagship restaurant, which for more than 25 years has championed Hawaii’s regional food. This time, I began with a hearty tomato soup, followed by kalua pulled pork with house barbecue sauce, macadamia nut rice and a small salad of fresh greens, and for dessert, stellar macadamia shortbread cookies.
65-1227 Opelo Road, Waimea. Tel. (808) 885-6822.
Also in Waimea, this rustic spot features outstanding casual fare of both Asian and Western derivation. I split the difference with a lemongrass Caesar salad followed by the exceptional burger — 8 ounces of island beef, apple wood-smoked bacon, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, spicy cucumber, caramelized onions and house-made mayo. Exemplary.
65-1299 Kawaihae Road, Waimea. Tel. (808) 885-9299.
The setting at this Big Island spot is unassuming, but we were delighted by the extensive menu and the imaginative and beautifully executed food. The island fish cakes may have been the best I’ve ever eaten, with a spicy wasabi aioli, ponzu reduction and a delicious Asian slaw. Also sensational was the “Sunset” roll, filled with ahi, unagi and avocado, rolled in tobiko (flying fish roe) and topped with a sweet ponzu sauce.
55-3435 Akoni Pule Highway, Hawi. Tel. (808) 889-5900.
Chef/owner Beverly Gannon has long been a star on the Hawaii culinary scene, and our visit to this perennially popular restaurant on Maui showed why. A standout was the starter sashimi Napoleon, a sumptuous construction of crisp wontons layered with tartare of ahi tuna, smoked salmon, sashimi ahi and wasabi vinaigrette. And I had to try the kalua pork enchilada pie, with roasted pork, cheese, mole sauce, corn tortillas and salsa verde, and lime-cilantro sour cream.
900 Hali‘imaile Road, Makawao. Tel. (808) 572-2666.
Engaging service balances the formality of white tablecloths at this contemporary-style restaurant set in the hills a 10-minute drive from downtown Honolulu. The far-ranging menu exhibits influences from East and West. The crispy garlic-scallion prawns were excellent, as was the flavorful butterfish with roasted bok choy.
3660 Waialae Avenue, Honolulu. Tel. (808) 737-1177.
I didn’t get to Roy Yamaguchi’s original restaurant in eastern Honolulu, despite friends’ urging. But the Waikiki branch is lively, handsome and well-run. With the option of ordering smaller portions, we tried everything that caught our eye. Pot stickers came with a spicy chili aioli and a kochu jong dipping sauce. A classic Roy’s dish features blackened ahi tuna, rare inside, with a hot soy-mustard butter.
226 Lewers Street, Honolulu. tel. (808) 923-7697.
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