Islay: Whisky Island

Islay’s malts are known for two things: their peaty smokiness, and a distinctive marine tang.

The Isle of Islay (pronounced EYE-lah), the southernmost of the Inner Hebrides, is home to eight distilleries that produce immensely complex and appealing single malt whiskies.

Islay’s malts are known for two things: their peaty smokiness, and a distinctive marine tang. Before being distilled, their malted barley is carefully smoked over a peat fire, and afterward, many of the warehouses store their whisky barrels outside, just steps from the Atlantic, where they breathe in the sea air.

To reach the island, I boarded a Caledonian MacBrayne ferry at the little port of Kennacraig on Scotland’s southwest coast for a very pleasant two-hour journey. Ever the dedicated journalist, I then proceeded to spend a few days visiting all eight working distilleries on Islay. Just reciting their names is an incantation to malt lovers’ ears: Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Lagavulin and Laphroaig.

Islay is easily navigable. Drives typically last less than 45 minutes, and the distilleries are conveniently clustered: Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain to the northeast, Bruichladdich in the western center, Bowmore in the capital town of the same name, and Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg strung in a bracelet along the island’s southern coast. Making things even easier, both Kilchoman and Ardbeg have excellent cafés, and there are good restaurants in Bowmore, the best being the The Harbour Inn.

Favorite Distillery Tours on the Isle of Islay

As for my favorite Islay single malts, I am a traditionalist for the most part, although I always enjoy trying new experiments.

Kilchoman is the youngest distillery on the island, having opened in 2005. It is a very small operation, which gives visitors a good overview of how a distillery works. Adjacent to the aforementioned café, there is a well-stocked gift shop.

Bruichladdich opened in 1881, was sadly mothballed in 1995, and brought back to life in 2001 with Islay-born Jim McEwan, a legend in the whisky industry, as distillery manager. The facility is still undergoing renovations, but the innovative malts coming out under McEwan’s creative direction make this well worth a visit. The gift shop is chockablock with books, whisky-related souvenirs and remembrances of Islay. Bruichladdich is also producing a superb gin with local herbs called The Botanical, which is not yet available in the United States.

Laphroaig (la-FROYG) was the first single malt I ever tried, and I retain a great affection for it. The distillery is beautifully set against the south coast, and the tour here is detailed and congenial. Photography is allowed (which is not always the case), and the guides are especially informative and accommodating. If you were to visit just one distillery, this would be my recommendation.

All of the distilleries offer the full range of available bottlings, including special distiller’s editions. Keep in mind that you cannot carry them on the plane when you return home—they have to be packed with your checked luggage, which has its risks!

As for my favorite Islay single malts, I am a traditionalist for the most part, although I always enjoy trying new experiments, many of which come from barrels originally used to age rum, Bordeaux, brandy and even Calvados. 

Whisky Recommendations

• Laphroaig 10 Years Old: A classic malt that represents the soul of this famous distillery. It is Islay in a bottle: sea salt, peat smoke and a not-unpleasant seaweed tang.
• Lagavulin 16 Years Old: This is the one I recommend to friends trying Islay Scotch for the first time, as my beloved Laphroaig is an acquired taste. It’s a smoother dram full of sea air, peat smoke and traces of salt and herbs.
• Bruichladdich Peat: A standout from the ever-inventive Jim McEwan, this has smoke, salt, grilled fish and an intriguing blend of light fruit. A malt worth lingering over.
• Bowmore 18 Years Old: Pleasing notes of light peat, sherry and fruitcake. Complex and worth savoring, this has supplanted the 17-year-old that I long favored.

>>Click here to read "Where to Stay on the Isle of Islay."