Italian Lake Region Restaurant Recommendations

Local specialties in the Lakes feature a variety of freshwater fish, including perch (persico), tench (tinca), shad (missoltini) and lavaret (a species of whitefish). The local polenta is renowned, as is the tangy Bagoss cow’s milk cheese from the region around Brescia. Here is a selection of my favorite eating places, plus one to miss:

CROTTO DEI PLATANI

This delightful lakeside establishment is an ideal choice on a warm summer evening when you want an outdoor setting and contemporary Italian cooking. The menu changes seasonally, but dishes such as delicate ravioli stuffed with perch, and rack of lamb with a pistachio crumb crust illustrate the kitchen’s undoubted talent.

CROTTO DEI PLATANI Via Regina 73, Brienno. Tel. (39) 031-814-038. 

RISTORANTE AL CAMINO

Perched on a hillside with fine views over Lake Maggiore, this rustic osteria has conspicuously charming and friendly service. Try local dishes such as lamb prosciutto, and white polenta with Gorgonzola. Finish up with a warm slice of red- fruit crostatta, the open-face jam tart made by all Italian grandmothers.

RISTORANTE AL CAMINO Via Per Comnago 30, Lesa. Tel. (39) 0322-7471. 

CASABELLA

This delightful restaurant on the Isola dei Pescatori, one of the Borromean Islands, offers a wonderful night out on Lake Maggiore from Stresa. Standout dishes include prosciutto with candied porcini mushrooms, grilled octopus with burrata cream, and ravioli stuffed with rabbit and black olives. There is a complimentary boat service from Stresa.

CASABELLA Via del Marinaio 1. Tel. (39) 0323-33471. 

TERRAZZA BARCHETTA

With a charming terrace on one of the side streets leading up from the port, this is one of the best and most reasonably priced tables in busy Bellagio. Owner Armando Valli is a charming and hospitable host. The menu changes often, but a variety of lake fish is on offer. Alternatively, try the delicious risotto with sausage, red wine, sage and Parmesan shavings.

TERRAZZA BARCHETTA Salita Mella 13, Bellagio. Tel. (39) 031-951-389. 

OSTERIA DELL’OROLOGIO

This delightful osteria is an ornament of the stylish sailing town of Salò on Lake Garda. The fine home cooking is exemplified by dishes such as beef carpaccio with rucola and shavings of Parmesan, and pasta in a sauce of Bagoss cheese. The fine cellar contains selections from the length of Italy, but emphasizes local wines such as Valtenesi, Lugana and Franciacorta.

OSTERIA DELL’OROLOGIO Via Butturini 26, Salo. Tel. (39) 0365-290-158. 

IL GATTO NERO

This fashionable spot in Cernobbio may be George Clooney’s favorite local restaurant, but it is touristy and overpriced.

IL GATTO NERO Via Monte Santo 69, Cernobbio. Tel. (39) 031-512042.