The Berkeley River Lodge: An Outback Discovery

Set in the far northwest, the Kimberley is one of the most rugged and remote regions of Australia. Closer to Jakarta than to Sydney, its 135,600 square miles are home to just 35,000 people. Cattle stations take up some of that space, but for the most part, the landscape comprises craggy sienna-hued ranges, emerald forests and wetlands, and forbidding cliffs that plunge into the ocean.

I have long sought a place in the Kimberley that provides an acceptable level of comfort along with a genuine Outback experience. I finally found it in The Berkeley River Lodge. Located on towering sand dunes at the mouth of the Berkeley River, the lodge, which opened in 2012, is the realization of an ambitious dream. Owners Martin and Kim Pierson-Jones had been offered land on which to develop a resort by an Aboriginal family. The challenge proved enormous, but “that was the appeal,” says Martin, who is a well-known entrepreneur in Western Australia.

The main lodge and the 20 villas had to be specially designed and the steel contracted for in China. Then everything, including the 65-foot pool, had to be brought in by barge. Each of the 20 loads required a trip of 14 hours; there are no roads into this part of the Kimberley.

As we approached the lodge, we glimpsed buttes, ocean cliffs and a vast stretch of white-sand beach.

Our journey from Darwin consisted of a two-hour flight over pristine wilderness aboard a small bush plane. As we approached the lodge, we glimpsed buttes, ocean cliffs and a vast stretch of white-sand beach flanked by dramatic 200-foot dunes. Alas, on arrival, the staff warned us not to get closer than 10 feet to the water, as saltwater crocodiles, the largest and most dangerous reptiles on earth, are apt to launch themselves landward to snatch their prey. “And in any case, the sea is filled with deadly jellyfish.” Neither makes for an ideal day at the beach!

Safari-style vehicles brought us to an airy, triangular pavilion — the best shape for withstanding cyclones, apparently — with floor-to-ceiling windows, polished wood floors, a small library nook and a comfortable bar. One level down, the pool beckoned, complete with a life-size sculpture of a “salty,” jaws agape, on the adjacent deck.

Offering river or ocean views, most of the villas are within easy walking distance of the lodge. Built in the shape of a pie wedge, each provides an outdoor bath, shower, freestanding soaking tub and vanities at the wide end. Inside, the spacious, air-conditioned room comes with a king-size bed and screened windows on three sides, plus a sliding glass door that leads out to a sheltered deck with a 180-degree view. There is no television; cell phones do not work; and slow Wi-Fi is available in the main lodge only. Room service is offered.

Imaginative daily programs give guests ample opportunities to explore. We especially appreciated the company of guide Bruce Maycock, who for many years has lived alone in a small camp some distance from the lodge. His intimate knowledge informed all of our forays, which included an excursion along the beach, where we found evidence of nesting turtles, and a memorable hike to a series of cascades. There, safely out of reach of the salties, we splashed in the freshwater pools and sat beneath thundering waterfalls. On another morning, we went to view remarkable Aboriginal pictographs painted on recesses in a rock face. Later, we ventured up the Berkeley River beneath towering red cliffs. Maycock also took us to a favorite fishing spot, where several of us landed barramundi, a prized game fish that also makes for very good eating.

Wraps, fine cheeses and fresh fruit, plus wine and soft drinks, were provided on all excursions. In the evening back at the lodge, we enjoyed well-prepared five-course dinners with dishes such as lamb with cherry tomatoes, eggplant and mushrooms; and golden snapper with broccolini, croquettes, tomatoes and beurre blanc. At the end of our stay, we left with real regret. Trying to be positive on the flight back to Darwin, I reflected that having waited so long for a Kimberley property like this, I couldn’t have hoped for more.

AT A GLANCE

LIKE: The magnificent views from both the main lodge and our Ocean View Villa.

DISLIKE: That we had to leave.

GOOD TO KNOW: Private helicopter tours of the area are available.

The Berkeley River Lodge 96 Villa, from $1,255, including flights to and from Darwin, meals, most drinks (there is a reserve wine list) and most activities. Kimberley Coast, Western Australia. Tel. (61) 8-9169-1330.