Letter From the Editor: April 2017

Despite a recent increase in tourism, Lisbon remains a city with a thoroughly distinctive character. Strolling through the neighborhoods of the historic center is a consistent delight. There, stylish shops in azulejo-clad buildings give pride of place to Portuguese-made merchandise, and restaurants take full advantage of the fine local seafood and produce, pairing them with excellent wines made from indigenous grape varieties.

On my recent trip, I stayed in a number of smart new heritage hotels. Not all met the required standard, but the atmospheric Valverde Hotel in particular, a 25-room property occupying a townhouse in the middle of the grand Avenida da Liberdade, will delight those in search of a tranquil residential setting. I also greatly enjoyed my stay at Pousada de Lisboa, set within a former ministry on the Praça do Comércio, a magnificent 18th-century square. The service was exceptional and the location peerless. In addition to time spent exploring the city itself, we took several trips into the surrounding countryside. Our most memorable excursion was to the scenic Setúbal Peninsula, home to several important wineries and a dramatic coastline.

This issue also contains a review of L’Horizon Resort & Spa in Palm Springs, which reopened in June 2015 following a comprehensive refurbishment. The property was originally a 1950s mansion — one of the finest examples of midcentury-modern architecture in California — with a glamorous Hollywood history. Now the splendid residence, with its sunken living room and private pool, is surrounded by 24 individual bungalows and backdropped by the rugged San Jacinto Mountains. Given the hype it has received, I had half-expected the resort to be full of celebrities and starlets. In fact, at the time of our visit, it offered seclusion, tranquility, excellent food and an exceptionally stylish ambiance.