Lime Wood, Lyndhurst, England

© Lime Wood

The English country house hotel has been on a lengthy journey, all the way from fusty floral chintz (Sharrow Bay) to minimalist designer trendy (Babington House). Its latest manifestation is Lime Wood in the New Forest, 90 minutes' drive southwest of London. The hotel--a Regency mansion built of pale Portland stone--overlooks 14 acres of grounds and embodies serene continuity. However, a five-year, $46 million renovation has had a dramatic effect on the interior. Designer David Collins has achieved a striking synthesis of tradition and modernity, aided by an arresting collection of contemporary paintings. The main house contains ten bedrooms and six suites, while three new buildings--including the lavish Pavilions--provide an additional 11 suites. All the accommodations are spacious and the bathrooms are spectacular.

The two restaurants are run by chef Luke Holder, whose résumé includes a spell at three-star Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. His domain encompasses the more formal Dining Room and the Scullery, which serves a casual menu in a "country kitchen" setting. Although Lime Wood's primary market will be affluent weekending Londoners, it also makes for an excellent touring base for Americans. Lime Wood, $380–$1,125. 44-238-028-7177. The rest of Andrew Harper's Notebook Column for Forbes Life can be found here.