Given the allure of Angkor Wat — the world’s largest religious monument — it is not surprising that Siem Reap has become a destination for travelers from all over the globe. However, I was still astonished by the development that has occurred since our last visit in 2008.
Angkor Wat is one of those extraordinary places, like Machu Picchu or the Taj Mahal, that simply has to be seen.
This was particularly evident on the drive into town from the airport. Whereas just seven years ago, the thoroughfare was relatively quiet, it is now choked with traffic and lined with dozens of new hotels. Fortunately, Siem Reap retains a degree of charm, thanks in part to the colonial and Chinese-style architecture in the Old French Quarter and around the Old Market. And the nearby temples — more than 1,000 of them, although some are little more than piles of rubble — are still astonishing. The crowds at Angkor Wat itself are often oppressive, but it is one of those extraordinary places, like Machu Picchu or the Taj Mahal, that simply has to be seen, despite its 2 million annual visitors. (Like Machu Picchu, Angkor Wat ideally would be closed to the public for a while to facilitate restoration and to allow a proper management plan to be drawn up and implemented. But as it is the centerpiece of Cambodia’s vital tourist industry, this is most unlikely.)
Modern satellite images suggest that Angkor may have been the world’s largest pre-industrial city, its closest rival being Tikal in Mayan Guatemala. Its golden age came during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1181-c. 1220), who controlled an empire covering much of Southeast Asia. Abandoned in 1431, the city slowly disappeared into the jungle, only to be rediscovered in 1860 by Frenchman Henri Mouhot. Aside from Angkor Wat, the colossal enigmatic faces carved into the stone columns of the Bayon temple at Angkor Thom, and the jungle ruins of Ta Prohm, where ancient temples are gripped by the python-like roots of strangler fig trees, are both mandatory viewing.
A true hideaway, no other hotel in Siem Reap offers an equivalent refuge from the tourist hordes.
I already recommend two hotels in Siem Reap. Over recent years, Amansara has become an established favorite of Hideaway Report subscribers. Set within a tranquil enclave in the grounds of a guesthouse that once belonged to King Norodom Sihanouk, its two dozen accommodations (including 12 suites with private swimming pools) surround a grassy central courtyard. Each features a generous sitting area, furnished patio and oversize bath. Public areas include a dining pavilion that serves both traditional Khmer and Western dishes, a library and a 55-foot outdoor swimming pool, plus an 82-foot lap pool and a full-service spa. A true hideaway, no other hotel in Siem Reap offers an equivalent refuge from the tourist hordes.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The striking mid-century modern architecture, the warm and anticipatory service, the airy spa, the stylishly simple design of the accommodations.
DISLIKE: Nothing.
GOOD TO KNOW: All-inclusive rates include airport transfers and two temple tours per day. Don’t miss the chance to have a post-tour breakfast or cooking class in the resort’s traditional Khmer house.
Amansara 95 Suite, $1,620. Road to Angkor, Siem Reap. Tel. (855) 6376-0333.
The nearby Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor is a contrasting property distinguished by its historical atmosphere of French colonial Indochine. When it first opened in 1932, the original guests were taken to view the temples five miles away on elephant back! Today, the 119 rooms are stylishly decorated with Cambodian artifacts, and many baths retain their period claw-foot tubs. The Restaurant Le Grand serves superb Royal Khmer cuisine, while the 115-foot swimming pool, surrounded by serene manicured gardens, is one of my favorite hotel pools anywhere in the world.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The romantic atmosphere of French Indochine; the setting, with its 15 acres of gardens, is exceptional.
DISLIKE: Some staff could benefit from additional training and their English-language skills can be rudimentary.
GOOD TO KNOW: The hotel is close to the Angkor National Museum, which opened in 2007, rich with archaeological treasures recovered from the nearby Khmer sites.
Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor 93 Landmark Room, $375; Personality Junior Suite, $680. 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap. Tel. (855) 6396-3888.
On my recent trip, however, I opted to try the new Park Hyatt (the brand’s first hotel in Southeast Asia). Opened in 2013, the 104-room property occupies what was formerly the Hotel de la Paix. During a 14-month refurbishment, noted designer Bill Bensley added Khmer touches to the existing art deco motif. Rather than checking in at the front desk, we were escorted to a striking lounge with high bookshelves and theatrical lighting. We then proceeded to our spacious suite — one of 13 — which encompassed an expansive living room with polished wood floors and swathes of Cambodian silk, a small butler’s kitchen and a garden terrace. The large bedroom came with a raised sitting area, while the generous bath was equipped with a terrazzo tub and both walk-in and outdoor showers. Contemporary Cambodian art gave the suite a strong sense of place.
During the heat of the day, we spent much of our time at a pool on the second level, crossed by a stone bridge and punctuated by square islands filled with trees and plants, giving it the feel of a small lake. (A smaller pool on the first floor was not as visually appealing). Next to the pool, a three-story spa provides a full menu of therapies in six tranquil treatment rooms, using locally harvested floral and aromatic ingredients. Overlooking a courtyard centered on a 100-year-old banyan tree, The Dining Room serves a combination of local and French Provençal cuisines. Cambodian set menus include dishes such as wok-fried prawns with curry paste, spring onion and roasted peanuts; and sautéed chicken with ginger, palm sugar, spring onion, saw leaf and Kampot fish sauce. The Glasshouse provides deli and patisserie options.
Given the hotel’s central location close to the Old French Quarter, we ventured out to visit shops recommended by the proficient concierge, including the wonderful boutique Artisans Angkor. This outing also gave us a chance to stroll along the picturesque Siem Reap River. The old town was formed by an aggregation of small villages that were originally developed around Buddhist pagodas. These are evenly spaced along the river, from Wat Preah An Kau Sai in the north to Phnom Krom in the south where the river meets the Tonle Sap lake. The most animated quarter is concentrated around Sivutha Boulevard and the Phsar Chas, “Old Market,” area with its French Colonial buildings. The Phsar Leu area is crowded with shops selling gemstones and woodcarvings.
All in all, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the Park Hyatt. It is complementary to my other two recommended properties, being an elegant full-service hotel with gracious and obliging service in an ideal central location. The street outside may be bustling, but the atmosphere within is serene.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The convenient central location; the stylish design; the delightful and well-trained staff.
DISLIKE: Very little; for a new hotel, it is unusually polished.
GOOD TO KNOW: The hotel has a BMW that can be booked in advance for airport transfers and in-town excursions.
Park Hyatt Siem Reap 93 Park Deluxe View King, $410; Park Suite King, $525; Park Executive Suite (with private plunge pool), $1,055. Sivutha Boulevard, Siem Reap. Tel. (855) 6321-1234.
Andrew Harper members have access to full travel-planning services through Andrew Harper Travel.
1 (800) 375-4685
Open M-F 8:30AM-5:30PM CT
