If you want to ignite a vociferous debate among Australians, you have only to ask which city they would recommend first to a visitor: Sydney or Melbourne.
For several months, each time I turned on the nightly news, a trip to the peaceful and friendly land of Australia seemed more appealing. Eventually, I succumbed to temptation and booked my ticket. On this occasion, I decided to eschew the cosmopolitan delights of Sydney and to return to the gracious city of Melbourne. Afterward, I headed northwest to the Kimberley, a remote region of Western Australia bordered by the Indian Ocean and the Timor Sea, before concluding my trip in the state capital of Perth and the adjacent Margaret River wine region.
If you want to ignite a vociferous debate among Australians, you have only to ask which city they would recommend first to a visitor: Sydney or Melbourne. I’m not inclined to referee the issue — I’ve never managed to decide which I prefer — and anyway, both cities provide numerous inducements for travelers of all tastes.
Melbourne’s position on sheltered Port Phillip Bay and the Yarra River has historically been a great advantage, and the city has enjoyed a robust economy. This began in the 1850s when gold was discovered in the state of Victoria — of which Melbourne is the capital — and today, the city remains Australia’s financial center. With a lively arts and cultural scene, Melbourne also ranks as one of the most livable cities in the world. Its attractions are currently fueling rapid population growth, abundant evidence of which we saw in new residential towers climbing skyward along the waterfront. Its more than 4 million inhabitants include the largest Greek-speaking population outside of Europe, and wide ethnic diversity has led to a lively food scene. If you enjoy discovering cities on foot, Melbourne’s grid layout — at least in the central business district — is a real plus, as is the extensive tram system, with more than 152 miles of track.
Despite its many charms, Melbourne offers surprisingly limited high-end hotel options. Tucked away on the east end of the CBD, the 240-room Park Hyatt is within comfortable walking distance of the shopping promenade of Bourke Street, lovely Fitzroy Gardens and many restaurants. A dignified façade with dramatic nighttime lighting opens into a theatrical lobby with a cinnabar marble floor and sweeping tiered stairs to the lower level. Accompanied to our room by a member of the engaging staff, we found a continuation of the warm color scheme played out in handsome wood panels and stylish furniture with an art deco cast. With couch, reading chair, work desk and armoire, the room proved spacious and comfortable. I particularly liked the large floor-to-ceiling windows that filled the room with a wash of light, as well as affording fine views of the spire of nearby St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Well-placed lights created a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and I appreciated both the generous walk-in dressing area and large marble bath with a soaking tub.
The hotel’s principal restaurant, radii, is set on a series of levels that make possible several seating configurations. It offers “creative contemporary cuisine,” with appetizers such as cured Tasmanian ocean trout with smoked eel mayonnaise and pickled cucumber, and mains such as roast suckling lamb with flatbread, pomegranate, parsley and garlic sauce. The lovely adjacent bar, where we frequently opted to end the day with a glass of good Australian wine, also serves tapas-size plates.
Amenities at the hotel include a 75-foot heated indoor pool and a popular spa. Personal training sessions can be scheduled in nearby Fitzroy Gardens, while tennis coaching is available either on an outdoor court overlooking the city skyline, or at the Rod Laver Arena, home of the Australian Open. Clearly, the Park Hyatt is a larger property than my hideaway ideal, but it is a stylish hotel with exceptional service that makes an excellent base from which to explore.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The feel of a much smaller property in a big hotel, thanks chiefly to the exceptionally congenial staff.
DISLIKE: The large number of business groups during our stay.
GOOD TO KNOW: Guests in Club and Deluxe rooms have access to a private lounge.
Park Hyatt Melbourne 92 Park King, $375; Club Deluxe King, $450; Park Suite King, $540. 1 Parliament Square, off Parliament Place, Melbourne, Victoria. Tel. (61) 3-9224-1234.
Even with diligent research, I was able to identify only one Melbourne boutique hotel that seemed to have potential. The Hotel Lindrum, a newly refurbished 59-room property situated on the main thoroughfare of Flinders Street, occupies a red-brick building dating to the early 1900s. Done in Romanesque Revival style, the structure has a varied history. The noted tea merchants, Griffiths Bros., commissioned the building and remained its occupants until the mid-’40s, when The Herald newspaper moved in. This was followed by Lindrum’s Billiard Centre, from which the hotel takes its name.
The staff could not have been more engaging, and proved a font of information.
On our arrival, the welcome was unusually warm. In fact, the staff could not have been more engaging, and proved a font of information. Upstairs, a high-ceilinged corridor led to our loft-like Junior Suite. The recent renovation had given the room a soothing neutral palette with splashes of color from accent pillows and artwork. An open, contemporary space with four large windows, recycled wood floors and area rugs, it provided a seating area with a chaise longue, reading chair and side table, as well as a roomy armoire. I frequently used the large desk as I coordinated restaurant forays and consulted maps. Given the spaciousness of the room, the bath was a letdown, however, being relatively small with a combined shower-tub and one vanity.
The open-plan ground floor encompasses a comfortable lounge, a congenial bar, a billiards parlor (with an original Lindrum’s table) and a dining area, felt, serving hearty breakfasts and seasonal, locally sourced cuisine at dinner. (During our stay, the menu included loin of kangaroo with beetroot and pickled mushrooms!) The property lacks other facilities, but guests can purchase a discounted pass to a nearby health club.
The Lindrum is an intimate and friendly hotel, with none of the self-conscious chilliness that afflicts some boutique properties. We found it comfortable and conveniently located, with a genuinely hospitable atmosphere.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Warm atmosphere and exceptionally friendly staff.
DISLIKE: Lack of views in some rooms because of the proximity of neighboring buildings.
GOOD TO KNOW: The reception staff have encyclopedic knowledge of the Melbourne restaurant scene.
Hotel Lindrum 91 Deluxe Room, $270; Junior Suite, $290. 26 Flinders Street, Melbourne, Victoria. Tel. (61) 3-9668-1111.
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