Milan: Exploring a Stylish and Underrated City

Though Milan is Italy’s largest city and its business capital, it remains surprisingly little known. Many American travelers use it as a gateway and swiftly move on to the Italian Lakes, Venice or Florence without giving the place a second look. Those who purposely head there for more than a day or two are often shoppers drawn to its fashion boutiques and specialty stores. Milan is a wealthy and worldly city where appearances count for much, and the exquisitely dressed inhabitants have raised the Italian preoccupation with la bella figura — being impeccably dressed and groomed — to a high art.

During the past 40 years, Milan has become a fashion capital on a par with Paris and New York. But beyond its boutiques, Milan can surprise and delight anyone who allows the city more time. If the magnificent Duomo — the largest cathedral in Italy — and Leonardo da Vinci’s mural “The Last Supper” are its best-known sights, it also offers a constellation of fine museums and restaurants.

Lately, Milan has also acquired a number of small luxury hotels as several of Italy’s major fashion labels have sought to extend their brands. Missoni and Versace have opened properties overseas, but Moschino, Bulgari and Armani are in Milan itself. Of these, the latter two seemed most promising. Always eager for some sunshine-flavored risotto and a cotoletta alla Milanese (breaded veal chop) at my favorite, Antica Trattoria della Pesa, followed by an afternoon at the wonderful Brera gallery, I recently decided to spend a week in Milan, staying at the two new hotels and checking up on an old favorite.