Visiting Montréal today, it is hard to believe that not long ago the city was in serious decline. A 1995 referendum in support of sovereignty for the Province of Québec failed by just 1 percent. Businesses fled, dealing the economy a serious blow. The crisis passed, however, and the city began to rebound in the early 2000s.
Located on an island in the St. Lawrence River, Montréal takes its name from the green and wooded 750-foot "mountain" that provides a backdrop for the downtown area and incorporates a park designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. Though it hosts the second-largest French-speaking population in the world (after Paris), this cosmopolitan city is also now home to most of Québec's Anglophones. Today, Montréal is a truly bilingual place where a word or two of English will be answered in kind. The result is a lively city where French flair is augmented by multicultural events, including music, dance, art and film festivals. Cobbled streets traverse atmospheric Vieux-Montréal, while the rest of the city is an easy-to-negotiate grid of skyscrapers, townhouses, shops and restaurants.
Montréal boasts four or five commendable hotels of 100 rooms or fewer. In recent years, we have particularly enjoyed our stays at the Hotel Le St-James, a European-style property occupying a restored 19th-century bank building in the charming old section of the city. The 60 accommodations offer a pleasing combination of traditional and modern décor, while XO Le Restaurant features the splendid contemporary cuisine of chef Michele Mercuri. On this trip, however, we decided that the time had come to try two other properties, to see whether our loyalties could be swayed.
Just a short walk from the Place d'Armes and the magnificent Notre-Dame Basilica, Le Saint-Sulpice is a pleasing hotel in an ideal location. For a property of just 108 suites, it has an unusually spacious lobby, with impressive columns that help to delineate the seating areas, vaulted ceilings, stone walls and a blazing fire. This all creates an agreeable ambience, the prevailing feel being one of clubby congeniality. (The lobby has recently been revamped as part of a comprehensive renovation of the hotel that is scheduled for completion by the end of next year.) At the front desk, the greeting was warm and check-in efficient; service throughout our stay was excellent.
The suites range from 500 to 1,500 square feet, but all have separate living rooms with pullout sofas. (The hotel is explicitly child-friendly, with those under age 12 staying free, and this is one of the foremost reasons the property may appeal to some Harper members.) In the main, the design displays a soft palette of grays and creams augmented by warm-hued woods, and generates a soothing, homey feel. Because the hotel is housed by an old building, the suites vary in configuration and character. Wi-Fi is free. Kitchenettes come with coffeemakers, microwaves, small refrigerators and a reasonable complement of utensils, china and glassware.
I recommend booking a Deluxe or Executive Suite, which have fireplaces and/or balconies. (If you do have a balcony room, make sure it faces the courtyard garden, otherwise, you might have a less-than-inspiring city view.) As some of the baths have combined shower/tubs, be sure to request a suite with a separate shower. The terraces and balconies of Executive Suites tend to be larger.
The courtyard is absolutely delightful. Shady trees, lilacs and herb beds surround a gurgling fountain and a terrace with comfortably spaced chairs and tables. There, we enjoyed breakfast every morning. Indeed, the experience was so pleasant that we often lingered far longer than we intended to and indulged in a croissant or two more than was prudent. In inclement weather, the terrace can be covered, and even then, it is still wonderful. Usually, lunch and dinner are also served on the terrace from the hotel's S Le Restaurant, but at the time of our stay, it was closed for renovation. The work is scheduled to end in late May.
Montréal is filled with good restaurants and people who like to eat well, and I found that the hotel's concierges were widely and dependably well-informed about the city's culinary scene. They were also most helpful in providing recommendations for shops, galleries, museums and so forth. Le Saint-Sulpiceis not at the pinnacle of luxury, but it is a charming hotel that offers good value and a genuine welcome for those traveling with children.
LE SAINT-SULPICE 86 Deluxe Suite, $260; Executive Suite, $445. 414 rue St-Sulpice. Tel. (877) 785-7423 or (514) 288-1000.
The quayside that runs along the St. Lawrence River in Old Montréal is known as the Vieux Port, a delightful area of old warehouses and promenades.
Housed within a former saddlery dating from 1882, the 27-room Auberge du Vieux-Port is ideally located on the waterfront. Our Deluxe Room was spacious, with an exposed brick wall punctuated by two large windows looking over the river. Furnishings included a wrought-iron bed, an entertainment armoire, a small desk and a comfortable reading chair. However, it all seemed a bit sparse, an impression accentuated by the bare wood floors. The small bath offered a pedestal sink, a whirlpool tub and a small shower. The hotel's French bistro, Narcisse, is pleasant — wine and cheese are served to guests each afternoon — as is the lovely rooftop terrace restaurant (open from May to September), from where the view is exceptional.
Nearby, the auberge offers 24 newly renovated lofts and apartments, suitable for those contemplating longer stays. While it does have a certain charm, plus a fine location, overall, I found the Auberge du Vieux-Port to be lacking the style and level of personal service that Harper members require.
AUBERGE DU VIEUX-PORT 83 King Deluxe River View, $250. 97 rue de la Commune Est. Tel. (888) 660-7678 or (514) 876-0081.
Illustrations © Melissa Colson
Maps © Andrew Harper
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