News From Londolozi, South Africa

Varty Camp, Londolozi

March 2011 saw the completion of a four-year refurbishment program at Londolozi, one of the pioneers of the luxury safari lodge. Located in South Africa’s Sabi Sand private game reserve, Londolozi has been owned by four generations of the Varty family and the final phrase of the project was the reinvention of Varty Camp, the foundations of which go back to the original 1926 homestead.

Pioneer Camp Terrace, Londolozi

Originally a failed 35,000-acre cattle ranch, Londolozi became a hunting preserve and then, 35 years ago, a conservation and tourism project that has inspired dozens of imitators – including its celebrated neighbor, Singita. The property now comprises five small camps, strung along the hippo-infested banks of the Sand River. The three new Granite Suites, all of which come with private heated swimming pools, are the most lavish of the accommodations. Pioneer Camp was completed in 2010 and also has just three luxurious suites. Tree Camp is slightly larger, with six suites, while Founders Camp (7 chalets) and Varty Camp (8 chalets and 2 suites) are less expensive and welcome families.

Granite Camp, Londolozi

Thirty years ago, most safari camps and lodges were relatively Spartan places, with rugged and masculine atmospheres. The food was more sustaining than sophisticated, and showers were often just canvas bags suspended from the branches of trees. It was Londolozi that began a trend which culminated in today’s air-conditioned suites, private plunge pools, health spas, gourmet cuisine, and walk-in climate-controlled wine cellars.

Today, upscale safari lodges are mini resorts in the bush, with facilities to rival a top city hotel. (So opulent are some suites that many guests check in, summon room service, and leave a few days later without ever having been on a game drive! And I myself have sat in air-conditioned splendor, protected by a plate glass wall, watching a leopard drink from my swimming pool less than 20 feet away.)

Founders Camp, Londolozi

Being first can sometimes be a disadvantage and over the years Londolozi has struggled to compete with upstart imitators, which became ever more lavish with each succeeding incarnation. The new Granite Suites and Pioneer Camp are clearly an attempt to reestablish the property at the summit of the safari market. I look forward to revisiting Londolozi on my next visit to South Africa. It is a place with a distinguished history, which, over three decades, has been a major force in African wildlife conservation. And there is nowhere in Africa where you are more likely to have close-up daylight encounters with leopard.

-A.H.