I’ve always loved Chicago for its inspiring cityscapes, vibrant streets, rich cultural life, superb restaurants and the small-town friendliness of its people. A recent trip served to reconfirm every positive opinion. In addition, we discovered two new and unexpectedly impressive hotels.
The Elysian hotel (188 rooms and suites) opened in January 2010 in the prestigious Gold Coast neighborhood, and is the brainchild of three Chicago entrepreneurs, one a nephew of culinary legend Alice Waters. The owners’ stated intention is to bring a smaller, European-style property to a great American city. Driving into the courtyard, I had the strange impression of being in Paris, owing to the gated entrance, central fountain and a curved metal-and-glass marquee that resembled a Parisian art nouveau subway entrance. Cheerful staff whisked our luggage into the lobby, a dramatic two-story space gleaming with white Carrara marble and illuminated by an extraordinary crystal chandelier that looked like a fantastically bejeweled sea urchin.
Our spacious suite was very welcoming, thanks in part to a convincing gas-burning fireplace. Its décor was a successful blend of classic and contemporary, with dove-gray walls and clean-lined, extremely comfortable furniture. Amenities included a Bowers & Wilkins sound system and free Wi-Fi. A roomy dressing area led to a large bath in white marble with black accents.
On our first morning, I asked the concierge to recommend a breakfast spot in the neighborhood, as we had planned an extended walking tour. He duly provided some options, but then suggested Balsan, the hotel’s casual restaurant. “Let me take you up,” he said, so we duly followed, not entirely persuaded. Even in luxury hotels, breakfast buffets are often rather depressing. Balsan turned out to be a smart, modern space with exceptionally affable staff. My poached eggs with apple wood-smoked bacon and sautéed fingerling potatoes were memorably good.
RIA, the Elysian’s romantic formal restaurant, has just been awarded two stars in the 2011 Michelin Guide, which is an extraordinary accolade for such a new place. (It should be noted, however, that the founding chef, Jason McLeod, left in February of this year and has been replaced by Danny Grant, who also oversees the Balsan kitchen.) Scrupulously sourced ingredients are employed in imaginative dishes such as a starter of black cod and caviar with a dash of blood orange, and whole roasted turbot (for two) with salsify, black truffles and zesty lemon. I thoroughly enjoyed reviewing the wine list with the engaging young sommelier, Dan Pilkey, who certainly knows his stuff, having begun his working life as a vineyard hand. He has put together a fascinating 90-page list with a by-the-glass section that includes 14 sparkling, white, rosé and red wines; 12 off-dry and late-harvest dessert wines; 13 fortified wines, including Ports and sherries; six Madeiras; three grappas; and nine eaux-de-vie! In general, the staff at RIA are proper and polite, with no hint of pretension. My only complaint is that the restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday nights, which seems a real disservice to hotel guests.
On the flip side of culinary indulgence, the Elysian’s 14,000-square-foot spa and health club features a gorgeous pool with a shimmering mosaic design, and a dedicated men’s atelier, where one can indulge in a traditional wet shave followed by a head massage.
The Elysian represents a delightful, smaller alternative to two perennial Harper favorites in Chicago, the 339-room Peninsula and the 346-room Four Seasons (located just a block away).
ELYSIAN 95 Deluxe Gold Coast Suite, $665; Classic Elysian Suite, $1,250. 11 East Walton Street, Chicago, IL 60611. Tel. (800) 500-8511 or (312) 646-1300.
I have always associated real estate magnate Donald Trump with glitz, but a recent stay at Chicago’s 339-room Trump International Hotel belied this preconception. Housed within a 92-floor residential tower (the second-tallest building in the United States), the new property proved to be a gilt-free exercise in contemporary good taste. And good service: Our check-in was as smooth as the white marble and glass that surrounded us.
Our room was on the 28th floor, which is as high as the hotel goes, those from 29 to 88 being reserved for private residences. Nonetheless, an entire wall of floor-to-ceiling windows afforded spectacular views of the river, Lake Michigan, the clock tower of The Wrigley Building and the ornate spire of the Chicago Tribune building. The interior has been done in a sophisticated palette of grays and creams, and the furniture is modern, comfortable and unadorned. I was particularly taken with the full kitchen, equipped with high-end appliances that included a Miele cooktop and dishwasher, GE Profile microwave, and Sub-Zero refrigerator, all complemented by Snaidero cabinetry and a granite breakfast bar. This is certainly an attractive feature for those planning an extended stay.
Clad in creamy limestone, the spacious bath had a deep soaking tub and a separate shower. I especially liked the soft, amply sized robes. The hotel also offers 53 spa rooms adjacent to the 23,000-square-foot spa; these do not have kitchens, with the space being reserved for in-room treatments and training sessions. The spa itself is an indulgent oasis where massages employ oils infused with gemstones! A health club comes with a 75-foot lap pool.
Perhaps the most remarkable of the hotel’s amenities, however, is its restaurant, Sixteen (so named because it is on the 16th floor). Here, 30-foot windows frame the Wrigley and Tribune towers. Chef Frank Brunacci garnered a Michelin star last year, and he has fashioned an eclectic menu based on fine seasonal ingredients. I especially enjoyed a starter of pumpkin with creamy Burrata cheese, Serrano ham and cranberry chutney. (This may sound like a couple of components too many, but they all melded perfectly.) A main course of prime filet of beef was flawless, as well as a reminder of the huge difference between the USDA gradings “Choice” and “Prime.” It came with a surprising—but not discordant—side of escargots with celery root purée, plus irresistible horseradish potatoes dauphine with a silky Béarnaise sauce. The service was efficient and friendly throughout.
We usually search for smaller, more intimate hotels, but there can be exceptions to the rule. The new Trump can scarcely be described as a hideaway, but the stunning glass tower is a notable addition to the Chicago skyline, and the property itself is now a worthy competitor to The Peninsula and the Four Seasons.
TRUMP INTERNATIONAL HOTEL 93 Executive King Lake View, $545; Grand Deluxe King Suite Lake View, $945. 401 N. Wabash Avenue, Chicago, IL 60611. Tel. (312) 588-8000.
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