From previous visits to Canada, I was well aware of the creativity that now characterizes the country’s kitchens. Chefs exploit the fantastic produce that farmers, fishermen and foragers bring to market. And many embrace the notion of “farm-to-table” menus, forging relationships with local producers. Here are some of the places we most enjoyed during our journey through the Maritimes.
This fine restaurant and grill is just around the corner from The Prince George Hotel. Seafood is the specialty, but carnivores are not neglected. For a full range of menu selections, the more formal upstairs dining room is the best choice. we began with an assortment of oysters accompanied by horseradish, white truffle mignonette and lemon, followed by a bowl of the house specialty chowder. The superb entrée “The Five Fish” comprised halibut, Atlantic salmon, scallops and shrimp, and was served with an asparagus, lobster and champagne risotto, plus vanilla-scented braised fennel and lemon butter cream. our server recommended the crisp, citrusy Tidal Bay, a white blend from the Nova Scotia producer Petite Rivière.
THE FIVE FISHERMEN 1740 Argyle Street, Halifax. TeL. (902) 422-4421.
This casual place in Halifax has an interior of rock and wood that evokes the Canadian great outdoors. The menu is based on market avail- ability and changes frequently. Just about everything on it appealed, but the dishes that really stood out were the Nova Scotia chowder, brimming with fish and scallops; and the braised lamb, served in a flavorful sauce bolstered by potatoes and carrots. our waiter guided us through the fascinating wine list, with its by-the-glass selection of Nova Scotia wines. I especially enjoyed the L’Acadie Blanc from Domaine de Grand Pré.
CHIVES CANADIAN BISTRO 1537 Barrington Street, Halifax. Tel. (902) 420-9626.
This cozy place in Lunenburg is just a couple of blocks from the water and has red-checked tablecloths and a homey feel. I couldn’t resist the smoked seafood chowder with mussels, shrimp, scallops and smoked haddock. we followed with flavorful and filling cod fish cakes.
SALT SHAKER DELI 124 Montague Street, Lunenburg. Tel. (902) 640-3434.
Set in an attractive location on the Hunter River, three miles from the island’s northern shoreline, the restaurant here features hearty fare at lunch that includes a fine version of French onion soup and a very satisfying lobster quiche. The coconut pie is irresistible. Back in the shop, you will find an extensive array of preserves, condiments and teas.
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND PRESERVE COMPANY 2841 New Glasgow Road, New Glasgow. Tel. (902) 964-4300.
Illustrations ©Melissa Colson
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