Outstanding Hobart Restaurants

Before leaving home, I had read several paeans to the quality of Tasmanian cuisine. I didn’t really know whether to believe them or not, though frankly, I was inclined to be skeptical. I am pleased to report that, on the contrary, the rave reviews are entirely justified. The local seafood, produce and wines are outstanding, and a generation of young and imaginative chefs is making exceptionally creative use of them.

Ethos — Friendly, slightly earnest and perfect for lunch, this new restaurant in an old stable building dating to 1820 illustrates how serious the Hobart food scene has become. Delicious ćevapi (a Bosnian dish of spicy ground meat with yogurt sauce), roasted chickpeas with mussels, and “the daily lamb”— a changing preparation of superb Tasmanian lamb — are standards. These are complemented by a splendid list of local wines. 100 Elizabeth Street. Tel. (61) 3-6231-1165.

Garagistes — The most talked-about restaurant in Tasmania occupies a former VW garage in Hobart. Locals flock to sample chef Luke Burgess’s innovative locavore cooking. The menu changes constantly, but usually includes dishes such as potato crostini with smoked-eel mousse; poached spanner crab, lacy lady peas, lovage oil, sea lettuce and shaved kombu (kelp); slow-roasted wagyu beef culotte, compressed lettuce stems and mustard emulsion; and buckwheat-and-crème-fraîche ice cream with quince and walnuts for dessert. 103 Murray Street. Tel. (61) 3-6231-0558.

Smolt — Located on Hobart’s waterfront steps from the Salamanca Market, this popular bistro draws locals with delicious Bruny Island oysters and excellent pizzas from a woodburning oven, plus a full menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes such as veal and pork meatballs with white polenta and grilled ciabatta, pappardelle with lamb ragu, grilled Tassal salmon with faro and du Puy lentil braise, and venison and pork sausage risotto with pinto beans, rosemary and Reggiano cheese. 2 Salamanca Square. Tel. (61) 3-6224-2554.

The Source — With memorable views over the Derwent River, this restaurant adjacent to the MONA is the slickest in Tasmania. Brittany-born, Sydney-raised chef Philippe Leban presents an intriguing avant-garde cuisine de terroir, or experimental contemporary Australian cooking using the best local seasonal produce. The menu changes often, but runs to dishes such as miniature oysters served with crabmeat and sherry gelée, roast rabbit with root vegetables, and, for dessert, coffee floating island with a lemongrass-infused crème anglaise. 655 Main Road, Berriedale. Tel. (61) 3-6277-9904.