Palm Springs Dining: Six Recommended Restaurants

Despite the affluence of Palm Springs, the dining scene is rather uninspiring. Chefs tend not to be adventurous, as evidenced by the appearance of sesame-crusted tuna with wasabi mashed potatoes on seemingly every menu in the city. Nevertheless, there are standouts.

LE VALLAURIS — Directly across the street from The Willows, this traditional French restaurant is close enough to provide room service from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. But in good weather, it’s a shame not to take advantage of the restaurant’s serene courtyard, shaded by a canopy of ficus trees. The cuisine lives up to the setting: I loved my garlicky escargots, and tender, perfectly caramelized sweetbreads. 385 W. Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs. Tel. (760) 325-5059.

WORKSHOP KITCHEN + BAR — This newcomer to Palm Springs has an industrial-chic décor, with large booths flanking a lengthy communal table of polished concrete. Service was inexcusably slow, but the cocktails and food were delicious. I had a bracing Singapore Sling to pair with a plate of tender octopus, cooked sous vide and spiked with smoky paprika. For my main course, savory Texas redfish with delectably crispy skin crowned a bright salad with purple artichoke, slightly bitter radicchio and chewy bulgar. 800 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs. Tel. (760) 459-3451.

SPENCER’S RESTAURANT — The dappled patio here draws a fashionable older crowd with upscale comfort food and unfussy presentations. I enjoyed a bowl of creamy and fresh corn chowder, as well as an expertly prepared fillet of parmesan-crusted halibut served atop al dente risotto studded with sweet peas. The three-course “Express Business Lunch” is one of Palm Springs’ better dining values, and you’re guaranteed some excellent people-watching. 701 W. Baristo Road, Palm Springs. Tel. (760) 327-3446.

CIRCA 59 — For a taste of some gleefully over-the-top glitz, you could try this restaurant in the Riviera Hotel in northern Palm Springs. A lounge lined with mirrored walls and glittery sofas leads to a dining room with equally dramatic red-and-black crystal chandeliers. The food could easily be overlooked in such a space, but powerful flavors demand attention. We began with a Peking duck-inspired appetizer served with corn crêpes and a spicy tamarind glaze, followed by a fine seafood stew with Spanish chorizo in a rich tomato-fennel broth. 1600 N. Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs. Tel. (760) 778-6659.

COPLEY’S ON PALM CANYON — Set in part of Cary Grant’s former estate, this restaurant has a romantic patio for alfresco dining. My appetizer of chilled duck breast over lentils and couscous with apples, red pepper and fennel presented an intriguing array of flavors and textures, and the barramundi with crab salad, spinach and spaghetti squash tasted fresh and sweet. The service felt professional but, alas, rather cold. This is a good choice if you can sit on the patio, otherwise, consider dining elsewhere. 621 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs. Tel. (760) 327-9555.

CASINO RESTAURANT — We ate at the Two Bunch Palms resort mostly because of its proximity to the Hotel Lautner, and we paid dearly for our laziness. The old-fashioned bar, stained-glass accents, sterile lighting and red carpeting all looked hopelessly dated. My main course, a ridiculously tall tower of sesame-crusted tuna atop wasabi mashed potatoes, was oversize and unappealing. But even worse, my crab cake appetizer came on a dirty plate, the rim marred with patches of old, crusty sauce. It was the most unappetizing meal I’ve had in recent memory. 67425 Two Bunch Palms Trail, Desert Hot Springs. Tel. (760) 329-8791.