Despite being more than 1,300 miles from any other conurbation, Perth doesn’t feel particularly isolated. A clean and prosperous place of some 2 million inhabitants, it seems like a city of the future. It was founded in 1829, but not much happened until the 1890s and the discovery of gold. The exploitation of Western Australia’s enormous mineral resources in the ’70s began a cycle of growth that continues. As an Australian acquaintance said to us, “Perth? It can be expensive — but they’re all rich there.”
We certainly saw this affluence in new upscale developments such as Brookfield Place, with its luxury shops and varied restaurants — “We’re going to give Melbourne a run for its money,” one restaurateur told me — the high-end retailers in the city’s malls, and lively sports and arts scenes.
During our time in Perth, we stayed at two hotels. The larger, the Duxton Hotel, has 306 rooms and suites. On the eastern side of the central business district, the property is within easy walking distance of most of the places travelers will want to visit.
Our spacious Club King Room came with floor-to-ceiling windows, a good-size desk and a comfortable leather couch. The warm-hued marble bath provided a separate shower and soaking tub, plus piles of fluffy towels. On the main floor, the handsome Firewater Grille is noted for its steaks. The adjacent Lobby Bar, with outdoor seating and double-height ceilings indoors, provided a welcome way station after a day’s exploration. With its central location and the appealing option of Club rooms, the Duxton is a comfortable and convenient place to stay.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The exceptionally convenient location within easy reach of the principal places of interest.
DISLIKE: A degree of confusion created by the fact that doormen and concierge share the same station by the front entrance.
GOOD TO KNOW: The Club rooms on the top two floors have access to a lounge with a fine river view.
Duxton Hotel 90 Superior King, $305; Club King, $330; Club King River View, $370. 1 St. George’s Terrace, Perth, Western Australia. Tel. (61) 8-9261-8000.
The Richardson Hotel & Spa offers a tranquil alternative to the central business district. Set in a quiet residential neighborhood, the 74-room property looks more like a stylish apartment building. Reinforcing that impression is the elegant lobby lounge with its wall of windows and array of Australian art.
Our one-bedroom suite provided well-thought-out accommodations complete with a kitchenette, a dining table and chairs, and a sitting area adjacent to the good-size balcony. Pale wood deco-style furniture was set off by dark-gray carpeting. Overall, the environment was elegant and calming.
The hotel’s striking restaurant, Opus, is set around a central column beneath an oculus. I loved my starter of plump ravioli filled with tender marrons and yabbies — small, sweet crustaceans — with asparagus, spinach and pickled shimeji mushrooms, served with dabs of a tangy lemon-oyster sauce. I share the Australian passion for barramundi, a firm white fish, and the version at Opus was unimpeachable — served with crisped skin in a nage combining spring onions and ginger and accompanied by tiger prawns. Opus is quite formal, but we found it to be delightfully reminiscent of a sophisticated supper club. The hotel’s other principal amenity is The Spa at The Richardson, which employs ESPA products and offers a comprehensive range of treatments (including Balinese massage), plus an indoor heated pool, sauna and gymnasium.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: A prevailing sense of calm, and the feeling that we were residents, not just transient guests.
DISLIKE: The fact that despite the hotel’s claim that it is within walking distance of the CBD, it is not.
GOOD TO KNOW: The hotel is close to a convenient shuttle to downtown.
The Richardson Hotel & Spa 90 Deluxe Room, $310; Deluxe Suite, $345. 32 Richardson Street, Perth, Western Australia. Tel. (61) 8-9217-8888.
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